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Summary: Exceptional Climbing Guide to the Magnificent Teton Range
Review: A good climbing guide is a personal friend. You spend hours reading about possible climbs, adventures awaiting for you. There is much pleasure in browsing a climbing guide, remembering the climbs you have made, those climbs not completed due to severe weather or other reasons, and all those climbs you have yet to try. My Teton guidebook has particular value as I always inscribe notes about my climbs: the date, my companions, the weather, route finding tips (or conversely, where I went astray), elapsed time, and other items of interest. This third edition, 1996, is more than four hundred pages. It is much to bulky and heavy to carry on a climb. But it is a remarkable reference of virtually every climbing route in the Teton Range. The descriptions are detailed and well-written. I have not encountered any climbing guide that is comparable in detail and scope to this work by Leigh Ortenburger and Reynold Jackson. The number of routes and variations on the favorite peaks can be overwhelming. The most commonly used route is highlighted. Route descriptions range from easy scrambles to difficult climbs requiring substantial technical skill on ice, snow, and rock. Numerous excellent black and white photos with climbing routes overlain are scattered throughout the texts. Also, there are many detailed ink drawings of more difficult climbs. For climbers new to the Tetons, the authors have listed more than 130 of their favorite routes ranging from easy scrambles to severe climbs 5.12 in difficulty, as well as difficult technical ice climbing routes. The first sixty pages provide an overview of the Tetons that alone is better than most publications on the Tetons. Major topics include a history of Teton climbing, descriptions of great climbs and traverses, details on the national park service policy, and a discussion of the difficulty rating system. The introductory section on Teton weather and climatology is quite good. Also, on more than one occasion I had reason to appreciate the bushwacking hints by Ortenburger and Jackson for those canyons without maintained trails. I have used A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range for many years beginning with the first edition dating back to the 1960s by Leigh Ortenburger. In the intervening years a condensed version, an extended version (volume 2), and a second and third edition have been published. This third edition is really quite exceptional and I highly recommend this guidebook to anyone planning to climb in Grand Teton National Park.
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Summary: This is one of the most comprehensive guides ever written.
Review: After climbing for over 25 years, I've used a lot of climbing guide books in a lot of areas. With subsequent, rewritten editions, these guide books usually continue to improve. Some, like those for Yosemite or Grand Teton, have a history of well done guides, each building on the previous guide. But the new Climbers Guide to the Teton Range is a monumental leap forward. It is the best guide I've ever had the oportunity to read, or use, in any climbing area. When so many guidebooks have gone to simple "topo" drawings, it's nice to see a well done guide that still uses the written word. Although some topo drawngs are used in this book to flush out rock route discriptions, many of the alpine routes are represented in aerial photos, with written descriptions. These often include a history of the route and climbers involved in the first ascent. Besides history, the book also covers climatology, geology, approaches, winter climbing, and general area information. The photography is outstanding, with the routes well represented on them. This book is a must for anyone thinking of climbing in the National Park. It is also an interesting read, as the history and life stories of Teton climbers is sprinkled throughout the guidebook.
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Summary: If you want to climb in the Tetons buy this book!
Review: I used this book on a 3 week climbing trip where I climbed the Teton 7. On the routes I climbed I never felt as if I was misled or not provided crucial information. This is the best Teton guide book I have seen. There is such a wealth of information in this book that I couldn't imagine one person actually ever completing all of the routes. I chose to ignore one of the warnings in the guide book and did not rent a canoe for the approach to the CMC route on Mt. Moran (I instead walked around the lake). Lets just say they know what they are talking about. The only thing bad about it is that the book is rather large. Copy the pages you need and bring them on your climb.
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Summary: If you want to climb in the Tetons buy this book!
Review: I used this book on a 3 week climbing trip where I climbed the Teton 7. On the routes I climbed I never felt as if I was misled or not provided crucial information. This is the best Teton guide book I have seen. There is such a wealth of information in this book that I couldn't imagine one person actually ever completing all of the routes. I chose to ignore one of the warnings in the guide book and did not rent a canoe for the approach to the CMC route on Mt. Moran (I instead walked around the lake). Lets just say they know what they are talking about. The only thing bad about it is that the book is rather large. Copy the pages you need and bring them on your climb.
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Summary: The only resource to Teton Climbing
Review: When in the summer of 2002 I was researching a resource book that would help me climb the Grand. After reading through numerous reviews on Amazon I was thrilled to hear how highly regarded this book was, and without a doubt it's a single most useful book I have ever owned, besides Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, of course.
If you consider to climb anything in the Tetons, look at this book to guide you through the difficult approaches, its photos are really detailed and offer enough inside information to pinpoint your destination and the routes of ascend.
This is it, buy it and take it with you on all your Teton Climbs ( or take the pages you need to save the bulky weight).
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