Rating: 
Summary: Not the Africa I know, plus glaring inaccuracies
Review: Dark Star Safari captures many of Africa's problems, but none of its magic. While I have only lived and traveled in East Africa, his dubious descriptions of this region leave me doubting the worth of his accounts of the other regions in this book. For instance, his description of Zanzibar, one of the most sublime and fascinating places to visit in the world, can be summed up as "it smells like cloves and they have ugly apartment buildings". Well, obviously, it is a third world country after all - but what about Zanzibar's rich history, unique architecture, stunning beaches, friendly people, and cultural melting pot? Does this crotchety man even enjoy traveling?
I've always wondered at the popularity of Theroux as a travel writer, because of this negativity and the sense that he doesn't much enjoy what he does. But I never knew his work to contain such inaccuracies until I read the East Africa section of Dark Star Safari. For example, in a single paragraph he completely bungled the geography/geology of the entire region when he tried to explain the region's volcanism. First, he claims that Oldoinyo Lengai is in Rwanda, while it actually lies in Tanzania, and though he is correct in stating that it is still an active volcano, it does not regularly displace villages like he claims since major eruptions only happen once or twice a century and besides, there are no "villages" within a six-hour drive, but rather the temporary bomas of the nomadic Maasai. Then, while he accurately stated that Kilimanjaro is a dormant volcano, he also claimed that Uganda's Mountains of the Moon (aka Rwenzoris) are "dormant" - except that they are a non-volcanic range!
While these inaccuracies could be overlooked or chalked up to Mr. Theroux and the publishing house's fact-checkers not knowing their geology, more troubling is Theroux's seeming lack of understanding of Tanzanian culture. While being constantly called "mzungu" ("white person" or "foreigner" in Swahili, and by the way Theroux spells it wrong) can be an annoyance, it is not at all a word of disrespect, let alone racial profiling as Theroux has the audacity to refer to it. And while he is annoyed at being called "wewe, mzee" (you, old man), the word "mzee" is generally reserved for those who command respect. While Theroux's bellyaching over being called old may have been a weak attempt at self-effacing humor, it was out of place and showed a shocking lack of understanding for someone who supposedly lived on the continent as a peace corps worker. The warmth and friendliness of East Africa's people is completely ignored, and it seems the only dialogues included in Theroux's work are conversations with locals who are as down on the place as he is. In reality the majority of East Africans are extremely proud of their home.
I get the impression Theroux thinks awfully highly of himself as a traveler, but his slamming of young backpackers and rich safari-goers as not encountering or understanding the real Africa like he does comes across as laughable considering he really misses the boat a number of times himself. At least some of us lowly backpackers take the time to appreciate the people, culture and wonderful things to be experienced there.
Rating:
Summary: I read this book while on an African overland tour
Review: Firstly, the review titled "Not the Africa I know, plus glaring inaccuracies" sums up the book rather well.
I found Therouxs views on Foreign aid and aid worker very interesting and enlightening, as were the numerous stories of people he met on his travels. His chapter on Zimbabwe where he meets a white farmer and visits his farmed now occupied by 'war veterans' riveting.
Yet in much of the book, Theroux demonstrates that he is full of his own self importance which makes for tedious reading. He suffers from Travellers snobbery, ie "I travelled the hard way, therefore I'm a 'real' traveller and anyone else who takes an easier route is not seeing the real Africa". Yet if I flew into a Game reserve and spent a single weekend living in 5 star resort and learnt only one thing from my travels, it would be the names of the 'Big 5'. Theroux gets it wrong (Sorry Paul, there are no Giraffes in the Big 5).
Malawi is full of the friendliest people I have ever met despite having the most meagre existence. Zanzibar is wonderful. Theoroux does nothing but whinge.
I'm glad I read the book, I certainly learnt a few things, but it's not an overly enjoyable read. If you want an entertaining travel writer, you can go passed Bill Bryson.
Rating: 
Summary: "Hoping for the picturesque, expecting misery..."
Review: Forty years after being a Peace Corps worker in Malawi and a teacher in Uganda, Paul Theroux returns to Africa and finds things changed--for the worse. Now approaching his sixtieth birthday and wanting to escape from cell phones, answering machines, the daily newspaper, and being "put on hold," he is determined to travel from Cairo to Cape Town. He believes that the continent "contain[s] many untold tales and some hope and comedy and sweetness, too," and that there is "more to Africa than misery and terror."
Traveling alone by cattle truck, "chicken bus," bush train, matatu, rental car, ferry, and even dugout canoe, he tries to blend in as much as possible, buying clothing at secondhand stalls in public markets, carrying only one small bag, and avoiding the tourist destinations. He is an observant and insightful writer, and his descriptions of his travails are so vivid the reader can experience them vicariously. His interviews with residents are perceptive and very revealing of the political and social climate of these places, and his character sketches of Sister Alexandra from Ethiopia (a nun who "has loved") and of two charming Ethiopian traders, a father and son, who take Theroux to the Kenyan border, are delightful.
For most of the countries of Africa, however, he has no kind words. Kenya is "one of the most corrupt...countries in Africa," everything in Kampala, Uganda, has changed for the worse, and in Tanzania "there was only decline--simple linear decrepitude, and in some villages collapse." At the U.S. embassy in Malawi, he finds an "overpaid, officious, disingenuous, blame-shifting...embassy hack" and, in pique, he wonders, "Had she, like me, been abused, terrified, stranded, harassed, cheated, bitten, flooded, insulted, exhausted, robbed, browbeaten, poisoned?"
Theroux has become curmudgeonly over time, and it is difficult to "travel with" a man who sees himself as a hero for making the trip at all, but who also refuses to give a half-eaten apple to a hungry child when she begs for it. He is very critical in his comments about other writers. He admires Rimbaud, who lived in Ethiopia in the 1880's, he visits Naguib Mahfouz in Egypt, and he spends his sixtieth birthday with Nadine Gordimer, an old friend. But Hemingway ("bent on proving his manhood"), Isak Dinesen ("a sentimental memoirist"), Kuki Gallman (a "mythomaniac of the present day"), and V.S. Naipaul ("an outsider who feels weak") are abruptly dismissed. When he ultimately refers to his own "safari-as-struggle," it is hard not compare his temporary and entirely voluntary struggles to those of the African people he meets along the way. "Being in Africa was like being on a dark star," he says. His book reflects this darkness.
Rating:
Summary: An Accurate Portrayal Described with Literary Prowess
Review: I have lived in Africa for over 20 years, and recently completed a similar overland journey (Morocco to Cape Town). I am busy writing my own book, so was a little disappointed when the pre-eminent travel writer of our times released his own account. In any event, as a prelude to my own literary ambitions, I decided to read every book on the topic that I could find - and this one stands head and shoulders above the rest. (For those interested,' Running with the Moon' by Johnny Bealby, and 'Africa Solo' by Kevin Kertscher were runners up).Theroux travels with Africans in conditions which are unspeakable for those of us accustomed to jet travel, high speed trains and air-conditioned vehicles. He meets with many of Africa's literary icons, numerous dignitaries, and contacts from time spent in Africa 40 years previously. He is also not afraid to use his renown to gain access and audience where the rest of us would have no chance. Combine these factors with his considerable literary skill, and the result is an unrivalled publication. His descriptions (notably the sunset on the East African plains) are breathtaking without being long-winded. He is able to contrast this with descriptions of squalor, hardship, the disintegrated infrastructure of the towns, and the transport used to travel between them . The various colleagues and friends he visits along the way, including the vice-president of Uganda, represent Africa's intellectual and political elite. Mostly, these people are enlightened, pro-active and deeply aware of the problems facing their countries. It is encouraging to read their discourse, as it is so easy to dismiss Africa as the stereotype of disenfranchised paupers governed by despotic tyrants. His time spent in Africa during the 1960's was a time of liberation. Nationalist movements were gaining momentum, and Africans were giddy at the prospect of independence from their colonial overlords. Theroux is almost certainly unique in that he witnessed the Africa of then, and the Africa of now (but nothing of the in between) and is able to communicate his observations to a large, receptive audience. This perspective adds another level to the book which sets it apart. Much is said about charities, missionaries and NGO's, both by Theroux, and the various others who have reviewed this book. I agree entirely with Theroux's observations. I found that the personnel working with these agencies seemed disdainful towards those of us who were really enjoying Africa, and often arrogant towards those they were professing to help. Their efforts nurture some of the most contemptible qualities of the African condition, turning them into subjugated beggars rather than empowering their independence. The deployment of aid does not improve lives, but merely provides the necessary resources required for reproduction - more aid recipients, all now living at the previous, lowest common denominator. Much of the aid is taken by the local chiefs, and is traded in the markets (lest we forget, America fought a battle in Somalia over this very issue, see the movie 'Black Hawk Down'). It may seem anathema to our sensibilities that Theroux is so scathing of these worthy men and women who have given up so much to go and help the dispossessed, but if the aid is counter-productive, even if only by Theroux's estimation, then he has the right (obligation?) to communicate it to us. Theroux is particularly scathing of one missionary whose efforts involve reforming the 'sinful' ways of African prostitutes. In the USA prostitution may be a crime, but in Africa, he points out, it is the only channel of independence and financial freedom for women. It should be considered criminal that we are going there and preaching some dogma based on our value system, which is intended to deprive them of their livelihood. And this goes to the root of the issue, Theroux says. We are trying to solve their problems from our perspective, while driving around in a fancy white Landcruiser, the value of which is the entire life's earnings of a whole African family. African problems need African solutions run by Africans (with help from outside if necessary). They need dignity, empowerment and education - not grain, medicine and preaching. I think Theroux does a great job of communicating this - even if it does ruffle some philanthropic feathers in the process. Why didn't I give the book five stars? Well, I feel that Theroux didn't give sufficient credence to the majority of proud Africans who lead the free and happy existence to which we all aspire. As a white traveler in Africa one is continuously exposed to the 'Give me money' syndrome. But this represents only a minute percentage of the population - those who await foreign travelers at bus stations, hotels and markets. These hustlers are a by-product of most societies - there were 8 million in Los Angeles by my last estimation. It took me at least two months of cultural immersion before I was able to transcend this exposure, and meet real Africans who were interested in my travels and reasons for being in Africa - people who I had to seek out. Indeed, most Africans are contented, hard-working individuals unaffected by the tribulations of modern western society, let alone of their own autocratic governments whose influence over their own population is token compared to what we are used to in the west. African society thrived for millennia before the ancestors of western society even left the continent. It is cultural arrogance to assume that we need to impose our new-found values on them. Sure there are pockets of famine, abusive dictators and colonial fall-out - but for the vast majority of the continent's population, life goes on unabated. It is mostly their exposure to our society (fancy white landcruisers, satellite TV etc.) that might give them cause to kowtow. It is Theroux' failure to acknowledge this, or at least comment upon it, that I feel is the only shortcoming of an otherwise outstanding account.
Rating:
Summary: Sir Vidia's Shadow, The Sequel
Review: If you love V. S. Naipaul, or think that relief agencies actually solve anything in Africa, or are convinced that abject poverty means extreme unhappiness, you probably won't like this book. On the other hand, if you like to read well-written travel books, are curious about what really is going on in Africa from a non-partisan point of view, and, over all, if you like Paul Theroux travel books, you'll love it.
Rating:
Summary: A barebones trek through Africa
Review: It is hard to imagine a more engaging and perceptive book about traveling through Africa than Dark Star Safari. Paul Theroux is a renowned and prolific travel writer and this book shows he hasn't lost his touch. In this journey, he covers the distance from Cairo, Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa. He travels by bus, train, car and boat through cities, villages, wilderness and desert. Many of his travels are of the roughest kind, such as hazardous rides in broken down jitneys and excursions into high crime areas. Even when not dangerous, travel through Africa is never convenient. Delays, breakdowns and bureaucratic red tape are the norm.
Theroux starts the book with the sentence, "All news out of Africa is bad," and this serves as a warning that this is not going to be a sugarcoated tourist jaunt. In fact, the book is downright depressing in many ways. Theroux had spent time in Africa thirty years ago and he finds that things have mostly changed for the worse. Poverty, violence, political corruption and disease are rampant throughout the continent. What is especially frustrating about the situation is that relief organizations have been focusing their efforts on Africa for decades with no measurable success. As Theroux tells it, these attempts at charity may in fact be one cause for the decline. In many cases, money and supplies are seized by corrupt governments. They also have instilled in many Africans a lack of motivation, as they have come to rely on foreigners to solve their problems. Theroux also describes the relief workers he meets as arrogant, aloof and not very helpful.
Despite the grim realities of Africa, Theroux's journey is not all depressing. He meets many old acquaintances and finds that no matter how bad things appear, there is still hope for the future. Theroux also finds that in many places, people manage to get by despite living under what might be called primitive conditions. The implication is that it may not be such a good idea to impose alien notions of civilization on people who are doing fine on their own. Africa, of course, has been subjected to centuries of colonialism by the Portuguese, Dutch, English and other Europeans. Making the transition to independence was not easy for these nations and many are still struggling to find their identity in the modern world.
For people not familiar with the continent, Africa often sounds like one large and distant place. Theroux's journey reveals the many varieties of people, climate and culture that exist in African countries. Vivid descriptions of Egypt, Tanzania, Kenya, Mozambique, Zimbabwe and South Africa are given. Theroux's style is enjoyable to read as well as educational. On his trip, he meets people from all walks of life, from the poorest to the most powerful and recounts their (as well as his own) observations and opinions about their homelands. All in all, a compelling account of a fascinating trip.
Rating:
Summary: inaccuracies but some insights
Review: Maybe I'm missing the bigger picture here by not focusing on the larger messages of the book but I found it hard to not be distracted by all the little inaccuracies and now I find myself questioning facts in all the author's travel narratives.
First, he mentions having to fly because the Egypt-Sudan border was closed. The Lake Nasser ferry was open and has been open for years. It travels between Aswan and Wadi Halfa once a week and certainly did in 2001 which I believe is when he took this trip (based upon his sniping at VS Naipul at the end of the book). From there trains and buses go to Khartoum. Many travellers took this route in 2001 (yes, even those with American passports).
Then he makes a big deal out of locating transport from Addis Ababa to Moyale. Well he could have taken the daily bus and even stayed overnight in Shashamene where he met the Rastafarian. Quite safe as this particular road is tarmac.
I read the British edition... maybe this is corrected in the American one but the Big Five were not even designated correctly. Ethiopia's "Ethiopian Orthodox Church" was incorrectly referred to as Coptic (a common mistake but easily debunked with some research).
I could go on and on but no one else really wants to read this rant, so I'll shut up now after saying that I do appreciate that he brought attention to the region to mainstream readers who may not have otherwise picked up a travel book on Africa and I do agree with his views on aid work, although I think a lot of agencies are now taking different approaches which I don't think we should discount. I also don't see how you can have it both ways... he takes shots at safaris but locally-based safaris are a way that Africans can generate income without relying on aid work.
I was impressed that he did go overland from Moyale to Nairobi though. That's a tough "road," if you can call it that.
Rating: 
Summary: Exciting Revelations
Review: The author really listened to the ordinary and elite Egyptians and Africans he met on this journey from Cairo to Cape Town. He respected their point of view and didn't judge. He traveled as the African does, by overcrowded bus, minibus, cattle truck, dugout and train. He ate what they ate...to a point. Before he returned home, he picked up a debilitating case of parasites; furthermore all his belongings, wallet, cash, gifts, and artifacts were stolen. I was deeply moved by this incident: He traveled with Africans Tadelle and Wolde for some distance and became great friends. Tadelle, the elder, told Theroux at their sad parting that "Zere was oneman, Adam. He have children. Children were different colors. I am black, you are red. But we are bruzzers." Woldewas sobbing as he left them. Theroux described the landscapes as if painting a picture. For instance the butterflies that covered the road and rose up in clouds. Foreign aid, charity workers, religious do-gooders all came in for their share of scorn. They did more to perpetuate the status quo than to empower the natives to become self-sufficient and move toward a better life. There were excepltions. This point of view was a revelation to me. The author's epiphany came in Malawi: only Africans were capable of making a difference in Africa, and sadly they don't know how.
Rating: 
Summary: It's too bad...
Review: There is so much that is really fascinating about Africa, and Theroux's writing, but he wastes so much time being the unloveable curmudgeon! It really is a distraction and such a blathering annoyance. He is unnecessarily cruel, and so obviously in love with his own often unreasonable and short-tempered opinions. Too bad he doesn't have an editor with similar qualities, maybe he could've cut down on some of the more egregious ranting.
That said, there is still enough to recommend this book, his journey is unusual and a window into a world I will probably never see for myself. I also really enjoy his devotion to history and literature, his references inspire further reading, and for that I am grateful!
Rating:
Summary: Interesting topic, but much too negative
Review: Theroux always chooses interesting topics to write about, and this book is no exception. But having read a number of his books, I always find myself disappointed, and I'm afraid that happened again here, too. Problem is, Theroux doesn't like people. So it's so depressing to hear him write an entire book on people! Listen to his assessment of a foreign aid worker, a young woman who had an outreach to the street children of a large African city: "...this Christ-bitten nag and every other twaddler like her sought out Africans...to abuse them with the notion that thery were sinners, to browbeat them into arcane forms of atonement, such as screeching hymns and the dues-paying routine of tithes." Is that the type of tone you want to hear through all 472 pages? I don't think anyone does. It certainly turned me off. Better look for a book from a person who seeks out the good in people and places and writes about that, not for someone who can't seem to stand people.
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