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Summary: An interesting, detailed history of the Eiger up to 1964
Review: A book which I found fascinating and gripping, but which I also found disappointing in several ways. The author researched the Eiger exhaustively, and his accounts are filled with details which bring them alive.But I have three complaints about the book. First, the author at times spent too long writing about the philosophical aspect of climbing, and climbing the Eiger in particular. Thus the books starts off slowly, but once he gets to the actual climb stories, it picks up nicely. Second, I think the translation from German is wretched. Numerous times I had to reread tortured convoluted sentences. (I blame this on the translator since "Seven Years in Tibet" doesn't have this problem.) The biggest flaw, however, is that the accounts end in 1964. Much of interest has happened since then such as the diretissima attempts. The only mention of these are brief descriptions given in a time-line in an appendix. Its flaws notwithstanding, I did enjoy the book and do recommend it, but would love another book describing in equal detail the history from 1964 to present.
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Summary: I've had to wrestle it away from other readers...
Review: even non-climbers. Once people get going on this book, they won't want to let it go. I've passed it around to friends - climbers and non-climbers alike - and always get the same reaction: riveting reading. Harrer does a great job of describing the early attempts on the Eiger Nordwand, and he does it with great insight, skill and compassion; and that's all well and good. What really made this book stand out in my mind was the way he tied the subject matter into the historical context of the times. I was able to understand that climbing, for these people, was a very different kind of activity than it is for me and my generation. Fascinating stuff.
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Summary: inspiration
Review: Harrers classic tale of the famous mountain face inspired me, last spring, to successfully climb the north face of that mountain. The book is the bible for many Eiger dreamers like myself. Any questions write me at Paul_kiernan@landon.net. Thanks.
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Summary: Risk and rescue on the Eiger North Face
Review: Heinrich Harrer's words of caution or chastising to those who made the climbing attempt unprepared in equipment, clothing, or experience sound a prophetic note. The disasters on Mount Everest in recent years were partly the result of attempts by climbers without sufficient experience and skill and taking a gamble on decent weather. I commend the author for his ability to relate the travails of the climb. He also recounts failed and successful rescue attempts and the advances made possible by better climbing and rescue equipment. I think few readers will be unmoved by the drawn out death of Toni Kurz in one incident or of an Italian climber in another.
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Summary: Good but could have been better!
Review: I enjoyed this book, but I kept feeling something was missing. For one thing, I expected long treatment of the famous Lachenal-Terray second ascent in the immediate post-war era, and this was most disappointingly lacking. Second, there was just .... something missing, somehow. The book seemed like a sterile recounting of history, not like something lived in the passion of the moment. Where were the great blow-by-blow descriptions of entire climbs, complete with pitches from hell, near-falls and miraculous saves, desperate bivouacs, all the great stuff ... ? I have to agree with the earlier reviewer who said that climbing literature just ain't what it used to be. Sure, it's good to see this classic in English translation. Likewise, it's great to see Gaston Rebuffat's Starlight and Storm in bookstores. But there is so much better out there. Why isn't Lionel Terray's "Conquistadors of the Useless" (for my money the best climbing book of them all) still in print in the US? And why haven't Louis Lachenal's "Vertigo Notebooks" ever been translated into English? And what about Heckmair's own memoirs? Like the other reviewer said: kids today don't know what they're missing. Too bad for them.
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Summary: A true documentary "thriller"!
Review: I have spent every free second the last few days to read this magnificent book on the Eiger ascents, and is truly a big fan of those climbers both those who who tried and failed and those who succeded. The Eiger North face has been a magnet to me the last 15 years, and after wisiting Grindelwald and the JungfrauBahn this book is really a magnificent source of information. Harrer write not only his own story, but also manage to bring me along the other ascents he describes. This is definately the volume to read before anyone try to climb this mountain. Well done Mr Harrer!!!
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Summary: Brilliant story telling and fascinating historical accounts.
Review: If you want to get drawn in by an incredible story, and at the same time get a history lesson about the world's most infamous North Face, this is the book for you. Harrer's ability to put you on the mountain and suffer with bold climbers is incredible. Several attempts and a glorious first ascent make for a superb climax early in the book.
Rating:
Summary: Brilliant story telling and fascinating historical accounts.
Review: If you want to get drawn in by an incredible story, and at the same time get a history lesson about the world's most infamous North Face, this is the book for you. Harrer's ability to put you on the mountain and suffer with bold climbers is incredible. Several attempts and a glorious first ascent make for a superb climax early in the book.
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Summary: How did this ever go out of print?
Review: The White Spider is the classic mountaineering story. It's sad that many of the old classics are gone. Terray, Bonnati, Buhl... the kids don't know what they are missing. Imagine thinking that Jon Krakauer is a good writer. Only the vacuum created by the absence of books by authors like Harrer could have accomplished that. Hopefully this version of the 'Spider will live up to the original and that they haven't mangled it too much in the reprint process.
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Summary: Facing down the North Face of the Eiger
Review: This book details Heinrich Harrer's participation in the first successful ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in the Alps. Harrer goes far beyond simply recounting the story of their 3-day ascent and describes the earlier unsuccessful and often fatal efforts that helped pave the way for their ultimate ascent and several of the subsequent successful and tragic ascents as well. Although written in a somewhat dispassionate manner that may be due to the translation from original German, this book is a very comprehensive description of the story behind the climbs of the Eiger. Worth reading.
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