Mountaineering Handbook

Rating:
Summary: The best of four books compared
Review: If you're loking for a how-to book on mountaineering there are only a few to consider. Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills is the classic, but it turns out to be too bloated and too non-committal--old school guidance, and not very good at that; sometimes it's just plain wrong. Extreme Alpinism is entertaining, but not a good textbook; it's too idiosyncratic, has little actual depth, and its information is not well organized. That leaves Alpine Climbing and The Mountaineering Handbook, both good choices. AC is certainly aimed at the more advanced climber, but TMH covers all the same territory and more; usually, they agree on details if not on emphasis. The difference is that TMH is more user-friendly, better organized, and covers a lot of basic details that will be new material for most mountaineers and backpackers, and that are missing from AC. TMH tends to offer the logical or technical basis for its advice, which I liked. AC takes a guide's viewpoint, with lots of lists of things to think about when making decisions but not as much of the justification that will help retain its wisdom. TMH is more like advice from you your best friend, and it covers many more subtle details. AC's photos are often hard to interpret while the illustrations in TMH are usually very clear. Some of the techniques found in TMH are too new to be found anywhere else; AC is much more up-to-date than FOH, but you wouldn't call it new-school. Here's just one example: using autoblock belay devices is a useful, modern technique. FOH, according to its index, doesn't even mention it. AC mentions two such devices but doesn't give enough information on how to actually use them, warning that when locked they are hard to release. EA is better, but TMH mentions or illustrates a half dozen devices and illustrates many uses, with plenty of coaching. It shows means of releasing them that are better and simpler than even the manufacturers offer. It shows how to use this technique as part of a fast climbing style and it even discusses using autoblock belay devices with modern, thin ropes. If I could pick only one it would be The Mountaineering Handbook, especially if I were getting started or were getting rusty. If I had more experience I might add Alpine Climbing. If I got another copy of Freedom of the Hills, I'd probably blow off most of what it says, just as other experienced climbers do. For entertainment, I'd pick either Extreme Alpinism or The Mountaineering Handbook--or both--depending on my mood.

Rating:
Summary: Everything you need to know
Review: What a great book. Well organized and exceptionally well written. Author obviously knows what he writes of. I've been climbing for years and some of his hints are a shining light of insight. I'd recommend this book to everybody in the sport, from beginner to advanced. Written with humor and obviously a lot of experience. Excellent! Great illustrations are really helpful. Take it along on your next mountaineering trip.