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Rating: 
Summary: excellent read !
Review: awesome book! for surfers and non-surfers alike! i really like greg's form of writing. he makes you feel as though you are right there on those beaches with him! i liked that alot!!
Rating: 
Summary: A Must read for a history of the North Shore
Review: Da Bull grew up in Southern Cal in the 50s at the first wave of the surf culture. Obsessed with surfing, Da Bull convinced his parents to let him attend school in Hawaii with older surfers. The Da Bull describes finding the incredible surfing spots, which are so well known to the world today.The highlights of this book are introductions to the legends that started big wave surfing and their wild and crazy lifestyle. Da Bull may have been the wildest and does a great job of relaying the stories without appearing cocky or self-serving. Da Bull gravitated to surfboard construction through many of the evolutions of surfboards before he finally tired of the scene and became a commercial fisherman. It's always interesting to see how these young men mature and I found Da Bull's journey very interesting. Never interested in surfing competition, Da Bull has virtually no contact with the surfing community other than old friends. Read this book if you want to know the history of surfing and the talented but eccentric men who blazed the trail.
Rating:
Summary: GREAT STORIES
Review: this is one of the first bios from a surf legend to come out;now it seems there is someone coming out with one every week.the stories are great.if you are into surf history get this.besides being a great surfer,craftsman,filmmaker....etc....greg is as humble as they get.i had the pleasure to meet him and he is a no bulls#!t guy.add this to your collection.
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