Dancing the Wave : Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

Rating:
Summary: Dancing the Wave
Review: I bought this book on an impulse after reading the back cover and a few pages. The promise of those impressions was not realized in the work. I wanted very much to like the book, but in the end felt that it jumped around, scratched alot of surfaces, and never really became insightful in the way I had hoped. Also, on a couple of subjects it actually seemed very shallow, almost to the point of being being cliched. I think there are much better and more insightful books on the subject, I would not recommend this title.