Annapurna

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Summary: Review of Annapurna
Review: Maurice Herzog's account is absolutely riveting. This is one of the best books I've ever read. After reading David Roberts' True Summit, I was expecting a self-serving rose-colored account of the expedition used by Herzog to elevate himself to idol status at the expense of his colleagues. This was not the case! He gave the credit to the team and to his comrades.

It is true that at times his narration drags in an attempt to fill in details. He does however surprise the reader with insightful comments or anecdotes throughout. The pages devoted to the party's retreat through Nepal during the monsoon were somewhat limited in perspective and anticlimactic. It is quite understandable that he would not be focused because of his injuries and the morphine that he was given. The account of the retreat is welcomed as it chronicles the physical suffering and emotional cost of the expedition.

If one reads this book with the expectation that it is one man's account of the expedition they will not be disappointed.

To name any single member of the expedition without naming all is an injustice but a phrase by Herzog's summit partner, Louis Lachenal sums up this book. This is an account of "une affaire de cordée".

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Summary: Gripping, although sanitized account, of the expedition
Review: Muarice Herzog's account of climbing for the first time of an 8,000 meter peak has its assured place among the classics in the climbing literature. The description of the harrowing descent and sibsequent medical treatments will surely leave a long lasting trace in every reader's memory! What one must remember is that equipment, techniques and psychological perspectives were different in the immediate post-WW II era than they are today in the time of guided expeditions. In reading this book, one gets a real sense of the true challenges experienced by the climbers.

While the book does not fall short in telling the story, it fails to provide an unbiased picture of the expedition and it's role in French society at the time. First of all, Herzog, for all his qualities, clearly orchestrated media attention, so that he will come out as the hero (at the airport prior to departure he had all other climbers sign releases authorizing only him to give first-hand account of the expedition). The national fervor following the success largely overlooks the achievements of other expedition members, including Lanchenal, Terry and Rebuffat.

Similarly to the first successful Italian expedition on K2 (where Compagnoni, Lacedeli and Desio get the credit, while Walter Bonatti's role is overlooked), here too the truly outstanding climbers prove only through their subsequent deeds (see "Starlight and Storm" by Rebuffat or "Conquistadors of the Useless" by Terray)their far superior mountaineering qualities.

In spite of all this, Herzog's book is, in my opinion, a must read for climbing enthusiasts.

Rating:
Summary: A mountaineers classic of classics
Review: One of the best mountaineering books that I have ever read. A story of life on the edge when climbing was more about the man and his spirit than all this high tech equipment. An inspiration for living life.

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Summary: Annapurna
Review: The book Annapurna deals with the first expedition of climbing a mountain over 8000 meters. Leader of this expedition is the writer himself Maurice Herzog.

The ending of the2nd world war has made it more easily to pass the limits and make it possible to climb the highest mountains on earth. And because of that Herzog gets an idea of starting an expedition that will make him the first mountaineer that has climbed a mountain over 8000 meters. He starts to collect people who have enough knowledge of mountaineering and enough strength. It becomes a team that consisting of Herzog, Lachenal, Rébuffat and Terray.

In the beginning of the year 1950 they travel to the Himalayans to find a mountain, which is just above 8000 meter. They decide to climb either Dhaulagiri or Annapurna who lie quite near each other.

The problem for Herzog and his team is that they only have some old maps from the Indians, who are not especially correct. So they have to do a lot of reconnaissance's to find a climbable way to the peak. Their first mission is to try to become the first climbers of the mountain Dhaulagiri. But after much recognizing Herzog and his French mountaineers decide to reconnaissance the mountain Annapurna to see if it's possible to make an assault1 on that mountain instead. After a detailed reconnaissance they decide to make an attempt. A long and detailed continuation gets started and the assault is quite remarkable and so is the descent.

Herzog's way of writing about his relationship to his "team-mates" and his descriptions of the landscape makes is interesting to read the book.

I got quite stuck to this book when Herzog started to tell about the assault. But earlier in the book, when he described the reconnaissance it was very tedious.

Many readers have criticized this book because they think Herzog takes most of the honour, and describes himself as the "hero". They also say that Herzog only financiered the expedition, and by that way became the leader of the expedition. And that he was travelling with the team just like a tourist and a photographer. Rébuffat and Lachenal both criticizes Herzog for taking the honour and write about their thoughts of the expedition in their autobiographies.

If you like adventure stories as I do, I think you should give this book a shot

Rating:
Summary: Interesting and Inspiring
Review: The story line in "Annapurna" rivals that of the recent book, "Into Thin Air", by John Krakauer, but being half a century old, and having been translated from the French, is written in a slightly less exciting prose. It tells of a three month French expedition to the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna region of the Himalayas which began with much correcting of erroneous maps, and ended in near disaster. Two men did summit, but suffered severe frostbite for their efforts. Also interesting were some of the difficulties in transporting equipment from the railways in India to and from the Himalayas, which are probably not so great for moderen climbers. I enjoyed the read, and recommend it to anyone interested in high adventure stories.

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Summary: Annapurna, a team's quest and no wineing (Jon Krakauer)
Review: The story of how the team's sumit on Annapurna and the discriptions of life and death mistakes made. Written with no regret or wineing. If you read Into Thin Air and liked the adventure, Everest will look like a walk in the park. These guys dit it with wool wax cotton shells and leather boots and no oxygen. Great read.

Rating:
Summary: Worthwhile
Review: The work chronicles the first ascent of an 8000m+ peak. While it plods at times, and the ascent itself is unremarkable (in terms of the drama it generates in the book), the descent is harrowing. I enjoyed Herzog's ongoing reflections on why climbers climb.

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Summary: EXTREME ADVENTURE FOR THE GLORY OF FRANCE AT 8,000 METERS
Review: This book is a romanticized, sanitized account of the 1950 French expedition to the Himalayas by its so called leader, Maurice Herzog. It is a book that is reflective of the times in which it was written. Still, it should be a must read for anyone who is interested in high altitude climbing.

I first read this book in the early 1960s as a young teenager. I recall being enthralled by it and amazed at the hardships the climbers endured to bring glory to France. In reading it again as an adult, I find myself still enthralled, but more attuned to the fact that it is written in a somewhat self-serving style.

The book itself chronicles the attempt by the French to climb an 8,000 meter peak in the Himalayas. They had two alternatives: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. In those days, the Himalayas were largely uncharted and any topographical maps which existed at the time proved to be largely incorrect. So, the French expedition spent a large portion of their time in reconnaissance. Not only were they there to climb the mountain, they had to find a way to get to it and then map out a route on the unknown terrain to the summit. Ultimately, they chose to climb Annapurna.

In reading this book, one must remember that the climb took place without the sophisticated equipment or protective clothing available today. This was before gortex and freeze-dried foods. This climb was made before Nepal or climbing the Himalayas became a major tourist attraction. The conditions for travellers were extremely primitive and difficult under the best of circumstances.

When the expedition finally finds a route to Annapurna, the reader almost feels like cheering for them. When they start to climb, one senses that, in comparison to latter day expeditions, they are not so well equipped or savvy about the dangers one can encounter during a high altitude climb or the risks in doing it without supplemental oxygen, as they did. Then one realizes that they were pioneers. They were paving the way for others.

The climb to the summit by Maurice Herzog and his partner, Louis Lachenal, is interesting, but it is their harrowing descent and return to civilization which is riveting. The two summiteers begin their descent but run into difficulties. They are fortunate to encounter two of their fellow climbers, Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat, who are contemplating their own summit assault but, instead, choose to aid their comrades in the descent, foregoing their own quest for the summit.

The travails which the climbers encounter on the descent would have finished off less hardy souls. Maurice Herzog loses his gloves during the descent and has no spare pair. One of them falls into a crevasse which, believe it or not, turns out to be a good thing. They are caught in an avalanche. They get lost in a storm. They become frostbitten and two of them, are, ultimately, forced to endure amputations.

The medical treatment they received by the expedition doctor is unbelievable and almost primitive. Employing treatments for frostbite that have since fallen onto disrepute (excruciatingly painful arterial injections, for example), the doctor is almost frightening, at times. The reader cannot help but feel pity for the suffering the injured climbers endured: maggot ridden flesh, amputations without anaesthesia, and lack of proper medical care for a protracted period of time.

The heroics of some of the sherpas, as on most expeditions, go largely unsung. One must, however, pause to reflect on the fact that as this all took place before airlifts were available, the injured climbers had to be carried. Their exodus back to the frontier took about five weeks. Who carried them down the mountain, over the moraines, on makeshifts bridges over flooded, raging rivers, through dense jungle? Who else but the sherpas. What thanks did they get? None, as usual.

Anyway, when the expedition finally return to France, Maurice Herzog is lauded as a national hero by the French. He becomes the media darling. The other three climbers, as are the rest of those on the expedition, are largely ignored and forgotten. Therein lies the tale. If you want to know how this polarization came about, I highly recommend that you also read 'True Summit' by David Roberts. It gives you the inside scoop about the expedition and how things really were.

Notwithstanding its idealization, romanticism, and everything is hunky-dory routine, Herzog's book is still a must read for all climbing enthusiasts.

Rating:
Summary: An amazing story of tragety and heroics in the Himalaya
Review: This book is absolutely astounding. I had no idea how good this book was going to be. I hope that they never make this into a movie because they would slaughter it just like they did to Into Thin Air (also a great book). They would slaughter it because they can't put this into a good perspective on a screen. This story is meant for a book. Marice Herzog has taken this on masterfully and made the reader fel as if he or she is in with them on the expedition

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Summary: Gentlemen Climbers
Review: This book is so good I never get it back after I have lent it out, hence I am replacing it again! I am especially moved by the outstanding character of the climber. When faced with disaster, pain and the incredible odds against them in this daunting undertaking the writer and his friends maintain true dignity and outstanding bravery. I was moved to tears by this book and have gained a respect for these "old" climbers that has not been exceeded by any other mountaineering adventure books I have read.