Annapurna

Rating:
Summary: Good descriptions of the consequences of mountaineering
Review: A good overall book. Lacks a lot of the detail of the ascent and descent found in current books. Focuses more on the strength and determination that each man had in this expedition. Has some gory details of frostbite damage and descriptions of then current treatment practices.

Rating:
Summary: wish there were more like this...
Review: A wonderful, beautiful, emotional, gripping story. Not just for those interested in mountaineering. Suggests a bygone time...worth it for conveying that sense alone. I am not a climber but I enjoy reading about those that do and other adventurers. This is one of my warmest favourites. Another great read is Tensing's autobiography, but it's hard to find - worth the effort if you can dig up a copy.

Rating:
Summary: When (French) men were REAL (French) men...
Review: Annapurna offers a fascinating account of man's earliest attempts to explore the highest mountains of the world.

Despite the controvery surrounding the accuracy of Herzog's original account, it still remains a milestone in exploration and in mountain literature. Care should be taken not to judge Herzog's leadership style harshly. Successful expeditions to the Himalaya on that scale require a more authoritarian leadership style rather than a softly-softly approach - that applies today as it did 50 years ago. For that reason, among others, the book has stood the test of time.

As expedition leader and author, Herzog manages to draw you into the story so that eventually you are taking every set with him as he grinds his way to the roof of the world...

Annapurna is a must for every mountaineer. It is also a must for voyeurs of human behaviour at the very extremes of our existence.

Rating:
Summary: Annapurna: the heroic facade
Review: As an account of heroism, comradeship and self-sacrifice, this is a stunning book. It's inspired generations of climbers. If you're of a macabre turn of mind, it's worth reading for the frostbite scenes alone.

There's just one catch: It isn't really the truth. Beyond simply presenting the viewpoint of one participant, Annapurna involves whitewashing and even, more or less, lies. Dialogue scenes are Herzog's after the fact inventions, and events are manipulated to present a picture of unanimous heroism, with Herzog always in the lead.

I used to recommend this book as a matter of course. Now, I think anyone reading it should read Roberts' True Summit, and the writings of Herzog's team members, as well. That's the only way you'll get any picture of what the first ascent of Annapurna was really like.

Rating:
Summary: All that was left was pain and disillusionment
Review: Before the outburst of World War II, there were many expeditions to the highest mountains, and with one exception, none of them ever succeeded at its goal, namely: to conquer the 8000 metre summit for the first time in history. However, in 1999 there was proof enough for alpinists that Chomolungma (also known as Mount Everest) was indeed climbed by two British alpinists, Mallory and Irvine. It's not a court proof, but proof enough just the same. These recent discoveries shed a different light on the events right after the war, when Nepal opened its borders for foreigners, and expeditions attacked the gigantic summits, one by one. Contrary to style adopted in prewar times, the new expeditions mostly used the siege methods, when alpinists used the labor of others, often Sherpas, to climb the mountain. Even if some of them succeeded, a purist wouldn't say that it was them who climbed the mountain. Ever since there is a controversy as to whether a siege method can be counted as an ascent at all. In 1950, the French expedition finally succeeded with Annapurna, one of the smallest eight-thousanders. Combining the siege method with the classic alpine style, the expedition's four climber core successfully attempted the ascent of the summit. For personal reasons, the strongest pair of climbers, Lachenal and Terray - was separated, and thus two light teams were formed out of the core of four climbers. Due to inadequate clothing and severe conditions during the ascent, the first team suffered extreme frostbite, and managed to descend with life only due to the support of Terray's second team, who thus wasn't given the chance to ascend. There were many unpleasant affairs hidden under the surface during the French 1950 expedition, and to gather the best reckoning of the situation, it's best to reach to the original sources, only two of which are available in English, namely this book, Annapurna by Maurice Herzog, and Conquistadors of the Useless by the friendly bear Lionel Terray. Before you try to form any opinions on what really happened, and why, during the 1950 expedition, do read both books. Needless to say, there are some other attempts to describe the expedition, some written by contemporary journalists with a sorry premise with its tabloid roots. Make no mistake, if you are looking for sensation, you should think twice. This is no area for sensation. Unfortunately, the mob is interested in the highest mountains because of two elements only. One: the sport and competition, a sorry and misguided premise if there ever was one, and two: the death toll. Both motivations repel the alpinists with any moral code. The sad fact is that Herzog's book, excellent in many dimensions, attracts mass readership because of the bone-chilling action and intense suffering afterwards, whereas Terray's memoir is left in obscurity because it contains none such, mostly. Fortunately, it's not the case everywhere, and in the mother country of both writers, as much as in the rest of Continental Europe, we know better, and give credit when it's due.

While it will always remain uncertain whether or not Lachenal and Herzog were the first men to climb the eight thousander, or whether or not the men who deserve that distinction were Mallory and Irvine · it's I think best to give all of them proper credit. Far up in the mountains, climbing has little to do with the life in the lowlands, and the journalist/bailiff attitudes do not apply. We honor all of these men whose achievements represent the essence of manhood, and thus the essence of alpinism. "Annapurna" is a classic alpine memoir, a must read for all of us who are personally interested in alpinism, or climb for the love of mountains.

Rating:
Summary: Good Adventure Reading
Review: First and foremost, the topic of the book is of historical significance in the world of climbing, so it's a "must read" if you are into that sort of thing. If you aren't, it's still a great adventure read. Well worth the time. I'm glad I read it and would recommend it to people who enjoy outdoor adventures.

The text itself is written well, flows nicely, and is generally an easy read. I also found it to have a good balance between the characters emotions, the activity of the climb, and local color and flavor.

Something I found interesting was the attitude of Herzog. Granted, this was written in the 50's, but it was intersting to see his attitudes towards the local people. He certainly had a "I'm better than you" attitude towards the local Porters and Sherpas. He also displayed a lot of attitude towards other members of his expedition. At one moment he would be very condescending and critical, then a few pages later he would be singing their praises.

I wish the book had a bigger glossary than it does. I frequently found myself going to the glossary to look up the meaning of a word that was used, and didn't find it. Here, I'm talking about "climbing lingo" and words and phrases that Herzog uses that are relative to the language of the locals in Tibet and India.

I also didn't care for the placement of the photographs. They often didn't follow the text. A picture could preceed or follow the pertinent text by 100 pages, which made for a lot of "page flipping". It would be helpful to familiarize yourself with the photographs before reading the text, so that you know when to go back and find a specific photo.

Outside of this book, I've learned that there is a lot of controversy over what "really" happened and Herzog's attitude and motivations. If you read this book, keep in mind that this isn't necessarily what actually happened, but more of an account of what Herzog wanted you to know. Take most of it with a grain of salt, and do some additional research to get the full picture.

Also, understand that this climb was a "first" at that height, and was using technologies and understanding of altitude at that time. A reader with current climbing knowledge will often read a passage and think to himself "No Kidding, Dummy!", but we know that hindsight is 20/20. Their accomplishment is all the more exciting knowing that things we know and understand today, were unknown to them... and don't forget, they didn't have the high tech equipment that todays climbers have.




Rating:
Summary: Not bad, but not great
Review: Herzog's account of his 1950 expedition to Annapurna is interesting. However, because he is a climber and not a writer, and it is translated, the story suffers and the prose is at times ponderous. I had hoped the best part would be the details of the climb, but that was a let-down and all too brief for my liking. The details regarding the gear available at the time were interesting as well as the attempts to find a approachable route up Dhalaghiri and Annapurna. I found the medical details of Dr Oudot's treatment of the stricken climbers Herzog and Lachenal following their summit very interesting as a physician, but it is not for the squeamish. The last 50 pages are very anti-climatic. This is a mediocre read, but not the best book about climbing I've ever picked up.

Rating:
Summary: touching my heart to the limit
Review: I am thinking that the book like this might never come out again. This book must be the best, or at least one of the best about the mankind's extreme mountaineering activities. The French expedition's whole travellings,its great summit attack and harrowing sufferings are still vividly alive in my heart and in my memory. This book is not only about the fact itself - the first conquest of Annanpurna, but also, by far more moving and tears-generating, about the enduring will, the unbelievably impregnable spirits of sacrifice and the utmost overcoming of ordeals, definitely shown by all members in the expedition. They decided to attack the Annapurna-the first conquest of 8,000 meter peak, but under the conditions in the year 1950, when plastic boots, gore-tex gears, even the correct map were not available at all. They had to spend a long, long period even on getting to the Annapurna area and locating the Annapurna itself correctly. We can fully imagine how much difficult it was even to spot the feasible climbing route. Compared to the present mountaineering conditions, it was surely full of ordeals, disaters and anguish. Many of the members in the team had to suffer severely from casualties like frostbite, amputaion and white blindness. Some of them had to have cut their frostbitten limbs, sometimes without necessary medicine, in the tent or even on the roads full of disorders and dust. I should remark with heartful respect the fact that they all acted as one body, more than one family, in helping the seriously wounded get down safely to the bottom from as high as 8,000 meter summit, which is rarely seen nowadays. Very well translated and perfectly written about the whole processes of the expedition's attacking the summit, all members' detailed characters, their thinkings and their minds, and finally their all ordeals and their endless spirits of enduring. This book must be read not only by climbers, also rather by everybody.

Rating:
Summary: A Classic!
Review: I had one of the original 1950's pocketbook and to date, it never fails to inspire me. Considering the times where Goretex and modern mountaineering gizmos were non existent ( and finding which mountain to climb!), Herzog and company were supermen. Read the book and find the soul of mountaineering.

Rating:
Summary: Incredible pathos and humanity (and mountaineering!)
Review: I have given this book to two climbing friends to read. I enjoy Messner's and Bonington's accounts and thought Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" the best written of many books of this sort, but if you want to REALLY shed tears for the challenge of climbing an "8-thousander" there is absolutely nothing to match Maurice Herzog! I think he has written two other books, but they do not seem to be available from Amazon.