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The Way of the Surfer: Living It 1935 to Tomorrow |
List Price: $29.95
Your Price: $18.87 |
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Reviews |
Description:
"Surfing is the simple act of walking on water," writes Drew Kampion, and the history of surfing is "the sum total of all waves ever ridden." The Way of the Surfer brings together the people and the act of surfing using stories and pictures. As former editor of Surfer magazine, and a fixture on the scene himself, Kampion has been able to track many of the changes in surfing since it caught on in a big way with non-Polynesians. The book focuses on key figures from several eras of waveriding, beginning with Duke Kahanamoku, the Hawaiian beach boy who brought the sport to the mainland. Kampion zooms through the post-war beach boom with profiles of such notables as moviemaker John Severson, board shaper Richard Brewer, and surfer Nat Young before moving on to the heady 1970s, when surfing took a decidedly mystical turn. From the drug-fueled explorations of Rolf Aurness to the "Buddha in the barrel" calm of Gerry Lopez, the tales of this era recall a time when surfing was still an outsider activity, with zealous adherents and strange philosophies. Kampion covers the go-go '80s with the rise of Tom Curren, the seemingly unstoppable champ, and Lisa Andersen, who surfed a path for women in the pros. An appropriate number of pages and pictures are devoted to Kelly Slater, whom Kampion calls "the best surfer in the world." Finally, the book finishes with a return to surfing's roots and a look at the spirited Hawaiian surfer Titus Kinimaka. The Way of the Surfer is an elegant and beautifully designed portrait of the styles and souls of surfers, a collection of words and pictures revealing the deeper meaning of "walking on water." --Therese Littleton
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