Paraffin Chronicles

Rating:
Summary: Let's talk story
Review: I've read most of the surfing memoirs available and this is my favorite. If you want the great American novel, read Melville or Fitzgerald, but if you are a surfer and want to hear what it was like "back in the day" this is the book. I can only dream of what it was like to live in the Islands in the late 60's before the breaks and beaches got so crowded (with people like me) but Torrens lived it. The book is written in a conversational style that suits the topic perfectly.