Rating: 
Summary: On Fire
Review: I am sure Daniel Duane did his best... but this is the first book in a long while I find myself wanting to light on fire. This, and I am concerned that Mr. Duane writes better than he surfs, which raises the question - What, exactly, is he writing about?
Rating: 
Summary: perfect surfer read
Review: very mellow, funny, well-written book. excellent beach reading material! a little trancendentalist, too...
Rating:
Summary: Some background clarification
Review: Although the cover copy led me to think the book might be a little too artsily written, I ended up loving it, and I highly recommend it to armchair surfing fans. I later learned that Duane didn't go to Santa Cruz to become a surf bum, but rather was earning his Ph.D. in English at UC Santa Cruz, and surfed in his spare time. That doesn't make as good a story, I guess. But I still love the book. If you can track down a copy, another great surfing autobiographical book is "Morning Glass" by Mike Doyle.
Rating: 
Summary: Too Much Walden Pond, Too Little Mavericks
Review: Overall, this is a worthwhile read for surfing enthusiasts, but it is around a third too long. Active surfers and fans of surfing will likely find the "naturalist passages" insufferable after a time. Had Duane included one more description of a field of vegetation, I would have set the book on fire. When Duane is talking surfing, the book is an engaging read. When Duane is pretending he is Thoreau, the book is a big yawn. At one point Duane describes the appeal of Bruce Brown's The Endless Summer. He notes that the film shuns "mystical overtones of truth-seeking" and instead embodies a "fifties hedonism of wholesome, laid-back fun." Too often, Duane does just the opposite. For me, the appeal of surfing is the speed, the grace, the athleticism, the danger. What has no appeal for me is a wanker sitting on his board looking at grass for two hours.
Rating: 
Summary: The surfing naturalist
Review: Dan does a great job explaining the sensual experience of walking down a dirt path with a board under your arm. I enjoyed the day to day update on his favorite little surf spot. I grew up surfing the SC area and have tried to figuire out where this little reef break is. He does a good job of speaking of spots without giving the actual name and location (SC locals should appreciate that a lot). The author is no Spicoli so don't expect any 'hey dude, let's party' in the text.
The book is an account of a guy in his late 20's (or is it early 30's?) that bails on his 'normal' life to surf & read and writes to tell about it. The research is in depth and the historical snippets are choice. I've dreamed of doing what the author writes about and don't think I could pull it off. I'm glad he did it and shared the experience with the rest of us. The reality that surfing is more about 5am wakeup calls and hours of driving crammed with 2 other guys in the cab of a pickup than beach blanket bingo is great. I'd like my wife to read that part. A passion for surfing is hard on relationships and Dan does a fantastic job relating the surfer's dilemma of 'wife (girlfriend) vs. waves'.
I'm a surfer so I expected more detailed descriptions of riding waves and the whole 'tripping the earth in search of the perfect wave' kind of thing. Dan is more of a naturalist who likes to surf. You get the sense that he really pays attention to everything around him when most of us just truck down the path looking only at the waves. Now go surfing and stop dreaming about it.A very enjoyable read. Not enough 'surf' for a 5 star rating but highly recommendable.
Rating:
Summary: Insiteful yet the stlye is frequently clunky
Review: Duane does an excellent job of relating about the history of the sport and certain famous characters such at Noll, Foo, and especially Dora. At times he expresses some abstract idea admirably well; however, at other times his prose is murky and perhaps indicative of the various bong hits the author admits to during his year of surfing.
Yes this is a worthwhile book to read, especially for the tidbits of scattered historical trivia and an exposure to the Northern California surfing culture. I actually enjoyed some of the natural history descriptions and understand how being close to the elements is as much a part of the allure of surfing (for some of us) as is the actual act of catching and riding waves.
Unfortunately, the ending is really weak and actually ends with "Nah."! For all of Duane's philosophical pontifications, surely he can close better than that!
Rating:
Summary: True Artistry With Surfing as the Subject
Review: Duane has struck so many wonderful chords with this book: man's relationship to mother ocean (and how quickly she can put you in your place), the marvels of being outside, the joy of self-discovery, and most importantly the "specialness" of surfing and why some of us devote our lives to it. Wonderful. Re-readable. Just really well written.
Rating:
Summary: a surfing classic
Review: Caught Inside is the best book on surfing that I have read. Not only does Duane capture the challenges of mastering the wave, he also captures the challenges that face young men moving from the last days of youth into full adulthood. Duane is right up there with William Finnegan, a big kahuna in the world of surf literature.
Rating:
Summary: The Philosophy of Surfing
Review: To sit in freezing water with even colder air temperatures for hours waiting for a good wave is an exercise in discipline, although a lot of people would say that discipline is precisely what the quintessential surfer lacks. Author Dan Duane exhibits discipline and several other honorable traits in "Caught Inside," his thoughtful memoir of a year spent following a dream and accomplishing a goal. While some may scoff at what can be called the "surfer mentality," Duane goes deep beneath the surface and dredges up a lot of emotion and introspective philosophical sentiments about why he surfs (and why he does anything worth doing). Duane is well-read, intelligent and expressive, and the book is interesting, beautifully written and thought provoking. I would imagine that Duane's musings would be valuable, meaningful and applicable even to those who have never even seen the ocean, much less ridden a wave. PS to reviewer Christopher Seal - women surf too!
Rating:
Summary: Whether you surf or not, this book is a good read.
Review: The book reminded me of "On the Road". I bought one for my brother so he wouldn't take my copy.
|
