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The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

List Price: $6.99
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Product Info Reviews

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Rating: 4 stars
Summary: A good read if the Everest disaster fascinates you
Review: I first read Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" simply because it was the first book published. I was extremely caught up in the emotion of the whole thing. Second I read "Everest--Mountain Without Mercy," a very good read with great photographs to boot. I enjoyed the perspective of the disaster from base camp. More emotion. And last I read "The Climb." A good read, but it actually left me asking what Anatoli Boukreev's motives really were.

He claims to have written in rebutal to Jon Krakauer's accusations of improper guiding. Fine, if he's got a beef, let him air it. But I felt almost as though he were looking for sympathy from the reader. I came away feeling like he had been pleading for me to understand the harshness of his life and all the troubles he has experienced due to the fall of the Soviet Union and other reasons. But what it all comes down to is the decisions and actions that took place on the top of the world. Was he justified in heading down ahead of the rest of his party? His book didn't convince me that he was.

I don't want to discredit the man or his heroics. The world has lost one of its premier high-altitude climbers and for that we should all be saddened. But as far as Mt. Everest on May 10-11, I'll always wonder, "What if?"

Rating: 5 stars
Summary: The Climb-Heroisim vs Into Thin Air-Banal
Review: Powerful, written as a first hand account, not an omniscient finger pointing rant. I do not doubt, Mr Krakauers experiences on some of the highest peaks in the world, but I do question his position in writing his book. Get the Facts straight Bubba! "The Climb" Fills in the gaps and has shed new light on the problem of money buys anything. That a intense training session is needed before one attempts this monster of a mountain.

I could ramble and blast Krakauer for his lack of heroism, but I was not there. I do blast his style he should have waited and researched it further. Boukreev and DeWalt presented something that has a more overpowering effect. More of a documentary style than a major TV Movie bid. Hopefully when the IMAX film comes out the record will be set straight for those who need to know.

Krakauers attitude in his book left me with a jones to know more about this subject. Boukreev gave me my fix. He went back to the mountain, faced his demons, not sitting in a Khatmandu hotel room smoking a joint, finally thinking about what went wrong and not having the foresight to possibly advise his team leaders that there might be a problem. Boukreev tried solutions Krakauer approached the subject like the express lanes at a grocery store, counting each item making sure that someone did not have his limit of goods or he would tell management.

"The Climb" is a much better choice for the reader, people whine about a plot and timing, it is all there in front of your face and in it. Not a disgruntled narrative full of assumption and finger pointing. Heck read both make your own judegements on a matter that really needs addressing.

Boukreev, Neal and the IMAX members are the heroes of this epic occourrance. Krakauer could have helped, but didn't. If Krakauer would have died there it would be another Everest casualty, but the later death of Boukreev was the loss of a pioneer and hero.

Rating: 5 stars
Summary: The myth, the mountain, the man
Review: Having read Krakauer's book, I was most interested to hear from another member of the "ill-fated" Spring 1996 Mount Everest bunch. I was not disappointed. Anatoli's account, in response it would seem to the accusations of JK, is a much needed piece in this unfortunate big puzzle. His heroism is certain, his drive incomprehensable to me... amazing. The style is a bit herky-jerky but would seem to be reflective of who he was. A man of the mountain, for the mountain, dedicated, thoughtful and uncompromising. How vastly tragic that he too fell victim to the mountains which he so obviously loved (Annapurna, Christmas '97).

Rating: 4 stars
Summary: More Everest Drama
Review: Rather than continuing the theme of The Climb vs. Into Thin Air, I would suggest that the two books compliment each other. Throw in Everest: Mountain Without Mercy, and you have the whole real deal. While I felt Krakauer's account is better writing, Boukreev's account seems to be more the "inside view." Boukreev DOES seem to overdo the self vindication thing, but I think it's due to Krakauer overdoing the finger-pointing thing in his book. With that factor aside, the two books combine to provide a fascinating, highly-detailed account of what it was like to be there. I appreciated the pictures in Boukreev's book more, and wish that Krakauer's had provided more. Can't wait to go see the IMAX movie now! That will surely resolve the picture issue.

Rating: 5 stars
Summary: The Book
Review: The Climb is THE book to read about the Everest tragedy if you want the facts and not just the buzz. This is the real deal on this highly publicized disaster - very well-written and organized. With the heap of additional info creeping to light it becomes increasingly clear that Krakauer's book straddles some kind of hack-journalist category between science fiction and non-fiction. And for some reason, every time I pick-up another outdoor journal there is another narrative of yet another hysterical outburst by The Thin Air author at yet another book tour stop claiming that all he wrote was true, really, really, really. Well, having read just about everything I could possibly find on the subject, my opinion is that Krakauer is deluding himself. He's far short of an expert on high-altitude climbing. By contrast Boukreev clearly is. Take a seat John. In conclusion, I can only hope that all the participants will some day find their own peace.

Rating: 3 stars
Summary: Poorly written; poorly edited
Review: While a defense against some of Krakauer's comments is to be expected, this chronicle of what happened on Mt. Everest in 1996 was entirely too self-serving. To Boukreev's way of thinking, he was the only person on the mountain who had the right ideas; everyone else was wrong and/or inept. His philosophy that his role should be that of a coach and not a guide is sound but not appropriate for his job on Scott Fischer's team, and his attitude that he had better things to do than "chat" with the clients is contemptible. Yes, his rescue of the three stranded clients was heroic, but if he had been with them from the beginning rather than dashing back to camp to "get rested," it's quite possible he could have gotten them all safely back to camp in the first place, making a rescue unnecessary. (One could argue that if Boukreev had stayed with his clients it's possible they might have all been lost with no one to rescue them....true, but it was arrogant of him not to acknowledge there was even the possibility that events could have turned out better.) Neil Beidleman wound up guiding many people down from the summit by himself, staying with his clients and getting them to the South Col. He deserves the accolades as much as, if not more than, Boukreev.

Rating: 4 stars
Summary: An engaging rebuttal to Krakauer's "Into Thin Air"
Review: Although it was not as well written as Krakauer's book, "The Climb..." was more engaging, more honest. Anatoli Boukreev, the veteran climber/guide on Scott Fischer's "mountain madness" expedition to Everest in May 1996 has been widely described as the most capable and experienced high altitude climber on the mountain. Boukreev's rescue of 5 climbers above 8,000 meters, detailed in his own words -- is riveting. This book also refutes many of John Krakauer's assertions from "Into Thin Air". When the snow hit the proverbial fan, Boukreev went back up the mountain on three solo rescue attempts - while Krakauer slept in his tent.

Rating: 5 stars
Summary: He was a hero...
Review: I have just finished "The Climb" after reading "Into Thin Air". Although "Into Thin Air" was entertaining in a rather melodramatic way, "The Climb" was fascinating. The anguish Anatoli experienced comes through loud and clear! May he asend to the highest mountain and rest there in peace.

Rating: 0 stars
Summary: A STATEMENT ON THE DEATH OF ANATOLI BOUKREEV
Review: It has now been confirmed that Anatoli Boukreev and his climbing partner Dimitri Sobolev from Kazakhstan were killed on Christmas Day when an avalanche struck them on Annapurna I in the Himalaya.

A few days after Anatoli and Dimitri had gone missing on Annapurna I, I got a phone call from a leading, weekly news magazine. The caller was fact checking a sketch of Anatoli they were planning to run. As he read, the caller said, "Anatoli Boukreev will most likely be remembered as the villain of Jon Krakauer's INTO THIN AIR." I stopped the reader and said, "likely not." I said I thought Anatoli would be remembered for the consummate climber he was. I said I thought it would be remembered that The American Alpine Club, on December 6, 1997, honored him with the David A. Sowles Memorial Award for his heroism on Mount Everest on May 10 and 11, 1996.

Considering the avalanche that took Anatoli and Dimitri away, I remember a conversation that I had with Anatoli in December, 1996, about his almost having lost his life during the rescue of two fellow climbers on Manaslu the year before. Anatoli said, "There is not enough luck in the world. That night I got somebody's share." Remembering those words, I think that it's not that Anatoli ran out of luck on Annapurna on Christmas day, but that he gave it to somebody who needed it more.

Anatoli Boukreev died a hero. The loss to high-altitude climbing is immeasurable. I haven't the words to express how much he will be missed. I thank the Amazon.com contributors who have offered their condolences. They are being conveyed to his friends and family.

-Weston DeWalt (THECLIMB97@aol.com)

Rating: 1 stars
Summary: Don't bother unless you are fascinated with Everest.
Review:

This might have been a very different book if Boukreev had gotten a co-writer who could write. Unfortunately, he didn't. There is no pacing, the organization is minimal and seldom is a context given for us non-climbers.

If you are fascinated by mountain climbing or the most recent Everest disaster, by all means, read Boukreev's book. Otherwise, buy Ruth Ann Kocur's book on Denali. _The Climb_ is a book to pick up at your local public library, not one to buy.


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