Dark Star Safari : Overland from Cairo to Cape Town

Rating:
Summary: Theroux travel at it's best!
Review: I have read all of Paul Theroux's travel books and found Dark Star Safari his best. But then I always think that when I finish the latest one. But Dark Star is better because it is more personal. An act of rediscovery, going home rather than discovery. And because he visits so many places that are not visited by tourists he does not get to engage in his usual tourist bashing. Although there is much of it, especially in the end when he talks to a young woman on a train about her literal belief in the bible. You almost feel your listening to them as the occupy the seats in front of you on the train. But the major part of the book is a rift on aid workers and the impact (or lack off) on East Africa (let's make note he only visited a portion of the continent) and how people and institutions have changed since he was a teacher in the Peace Corps in the 60s. Always fun, always thought provoking, and always told with the wonderful wry wit that drips with sarcasm this is a wonderful trip to take with Mr. Theroux, and I was sad when it ended. I highly recommend this enjoyable volume.

Rating:
Summary: Great book considering how little insight the author has
Review: This is a great book. But then I like all Theroux's travel books. His erudite but frank and often witty observations make his books fun to read. What makes this book special is that Theroux has done and writes about two things that relatively few people have done and almost no one has written about. He has traveled overland from Cairo to Cape Town and he has made visits to Uganda 40 years apart.

My gripe about his lack of insight comes primarily from two passages. The first describes his contempt for the international aid workers who whiz past him in their air conditioned SUVs while he stands by the side of the road with his thumb out. As someone who has ridden in these air conditioned SUVs (Central and West Africa 1981-1985) and has also stood on the side of the road with his thumb out (Melilla to Dar 1972) I understand what Theroux doesn't. The aid workers don't spend their days whizzing around in air conditioned SUVs but work, often hard, for months on end under arduous conditions and the bug free a/c of the SUV may be the most comfortable environment they are in all day or even all week. He expects the aid workers to stop and pack their vehicle with the hordes of people they pass on the road who are desperate for a ride? That's too much to ask. Or does Theroux seriously think that as a muzungu out for a lark with a wad of money in his pocket relief workers should stop for him but not offer the same courtesy to the local people?

The second passage that demonstrates Theroux's lack of insight is where he recounts his conversation with a U.S. embassy employee who listens to Theroux patiently but seems unimpressed and has NOT (can you imagine it) followed Theroux's instructions to arrange for him to give some lectures while he breezes through town. Does Theroux like to be perceived as arrogant?

Besides all that, the book is fascinating for Theroux's observations about people, history, and places, especially because he visits some very out-of-the way places. Even more interesting to me were his comments about his sojourn in Malawi and Uganda in the 1960's and his recounting of the conversations he had during his recent trip with people he had known as a young man.

I'd recommend this book to anyone familiar with and interested in Africa and to anyone interested in African development as well as to anyone who likes Paul Theroux's travel writing. I would not recommend this book to someone with little knowledge of Africa.

Rating:
Summary: An interesting read
Review: I have very mixed feelings about this book. I do think that his criticism of aid workers was a little too much. Misguided they may be, but having traveled extensively in sub-Saharan Africa, I can't say that I have found them to be anything but open and hospitable ... if somwhat cynical.
I also had trouble with titling the book "Dark Star Safari : Overland from Cairo to Cape Town." It wasn't overland from Cairo to Cape Town. It was overland from Addis Ababa to Cape Town. It may be a minor point, but he compounded it by repeating ad nauseum Nadine Gordimer's line that he took the "bus from Cairo" to South Africa. It just wasn't true and one would think he would correct her not keep repeating the innaccuracy. He took the bus rarely ... it was boats, private rides, planes...
Finally, I was very surprised that he traveled throughout Zimbabwe ... including through Mutare ... and never mentioned the AIDs crisis. About 40% of the population there has AIDs, most victims are parents of small children leaving a generation of AIDs orphans. While the plight of the white farmers is certainly compelling, I can't imagine traveling through that country and not mentioning the situation with AIDs.
Having said all of that, I do think that the book reflects Africa today and the concerns about the legacy of colonialism and aid should be raised.

Rating:
Summary: Another interesting book from Theroux
Review: I have read all of Paul Theroux's travel books, starting with "The Great Railway Bazaar," which, interestingly, I picked up secondhand in Istanbul, and I have enjoyed all of them.

Naturally, I can't think of a more interesting place to visit and cross like Africa. Mr. Theroux was a teacher there, in Uganda, in the 1960's, a time of great hope and stability in Africa with newfound independence in many formerly British and French colonies.

Unfortunately, Africa, as a continent, has dissolved into a variety of dysfunctional states, collapsing economies, and general sense that the entire continent is on the edge of complete disater. AIDS, and famines have ravaged most of the continent, with other places condemned to other various problems.

Mr. Theroux makes, fortunately, a journey through Africa down the Nile through Sudan, on to Uganda, where he taught, and onwards to Kenya and South Africa. Mr. Theroux has written that you can judge a nation by how it conducts its train system. What a true statement! Unfortunately, where Mr. Theroux takes the train, he finds trains badly out of date, and relying on the construction and design of the colonial era. Theroux also takes rafts, and drives. I admire that at Mr. Theroux's age and standing, he is willing to "rough it" like so many young people do in traveling throughtout Europe and other places. Theroux's intrepidness brings a lot of interesting facets to his stories, and it makes for an interesting book, that is for sure!!

Mr. Theroux's views and attitudes in this book, I think, go along with his views readers may have noted throughout his other travel books. For example, in the "Great Railway Bazaar," he was traveling in a (seemingly) much more pastoral time in the world. Now, the prospect of a failed state means much more than just a terrible transportation system. Further, travel thirty years ago meant truly disappearing into the mists without good communications from home. I am old enough to remember traveling to many places with my parents and having to wait for a circuit to open to dial overseas. Also, when you traveled, it meant escaping into another different place. In Europe, I was happy as a young man to see McDonald's. Today, McDonald's is ubitiquous, and so many things are similar, the world begins to be Disney's theme park version of the place your going to visit. Paris, particularily the Champs de Elysees, is now a similachra of what one thinks Paris once was! Mr. Theroux, however, certainly makes it clear tht modern communications hardly reach many places he travelled in Africa. The point being that the book is a product of its time. Reading his earlier books, the world seems more romantic, today, you, as a reader, make more darker assessments of the encounters Mr. Theroux provides. Hence, the name, "Dark Star Safari."

Mr. Theroux also explains why so many Africans seem to be wearing Nike shirts and other very American or European things when you see film from places in, specifically, Sub-Saharan Africa. It seems that many clothes that get donated gto Goodwill, for example, end up in Africa, where he observed many with clothes with logos such as "Capetown Little League." To me, it was an allusion to the many leftovers (food products, people, ideas, things) in the world that go to Africa for one reason or another; Africa is, unfortunately, a failed continent, a container, if you will, for the hopes, dreams, and nightmares of modern civilization.

Some have noted that Mr. Theroux seems arrogant because he can't believe his old haunt in Uganda didn't arrange for a lecture for him. However, I believe that the point of his so-called arrogance is to demonstrate that so many things in Africa are failing. His old school is barely standing and functional, let alone able to provide him with the ability to teach its students.

I found Theroux's travel to South Africa most unfortunate because it is an example of how a once prosperous state (albeit one with some horribly serious draconian social problems in the form of Apartheid) has begun to dissolve into chaos. The most unfortunate point in the entire section is how, when eating in an ornate and well-appointed restaurant in downtown Johannesburg with a well-known South African author, he finds the entire restaurant is basically deserted because of the fear of the rampant crime in Johannesburg. How sad, how unfortunate, and how symbolic for the entire continent!!!

As with many of Theroux's travel books, don't expect a lot of great insights provided for you, grand statements of political views, or other pontifications that other authors, such as Robert Kaplan, provide. Instead, go along with Mr. Theroux on a odyssey of a grand continent in the twilight of globablization. Meet interesting people (natives, missionaries, weirdos, backpackers), and see the world. I can't think of a more entertaining travelogue. The worst thing about this book is coming to the end and knowing that it will be years before Mr. Theroux decides, and actually does write another book like this.

Rating:
Summary: A Bright Look At Darkest Africa
Review: I thoroughly enjoyed this book. I hadn't read Theroux since "Riding The Iron Rooster" and didn't want to after reading about a third of that book. Ordinarily, I have to finish a book even if I don't like what I'm reading, but Theroux's book about his travels through China was so negative, I was thoroughly disgusted and had to put the book away. From what I read, it seemed as if Theroux lost his joy of travel; he hated everything. Maybe a middle-age crisis, who knows? Theroux's joy in travel is back in "Dark Star Safari" however. (The dirt and grime and dust of China though annoyed him terribly but somehow the same conditions in Africa aren't nearly so repulsive to him.) How he survived the trip by land from Cairo to South Africa without having a nervous collapse is amazing. Theroux's anger at African dictators who no longer can blame colonialism for their countrys' problems is a breath of fresh air. What's stale and rotten though is that the west keeps pouring dollars into the pockets of these very same dictators in the guise of aid. Africa's future (with the exception of a few countries) appears hopelessly fated to repeat the same blood-drenched policies again and again. I'd like to see Theroux take his next trip up the west coast of Africa and write a book about that.

Rating:
Summary: Not exactly an uplifting book...
Review: I thought that Paul Theroux's book was a wonderful read, although slow and pessimistic in some areas. The conversations with locals are wonderful, although I dislike the idea that he insults foreign aid workers and missionaries. This book is definately not for the light at heart, but I recommenend it none-the-less.

Rating:
Summary: a hard, smart trip
Review: To paraphrase P.J. O'Rourke, anyone who think it's one world haven't had to use a foreign bathroom recently. It's that same spirit that I like about Paul Theroux: he hitchhikes, he paddles, he takes the train, he hangs off the side of a bus, he goes to all sorts of rare places and tells us exactly what they are like. In "Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Cape Town," he returns to Africa for the first time since leaving in the late 1960s, and his journey is as riveting and his reportage as merciless as any writing he has done.

Paul Theroux was in the Peace Corps in Africa in the early 1960s until he was ejected from the Corps for giving a member of an opposition political party a ride to neighboring Uganda. That same friend--who later became Malawi's ambassador to the United Nations--got Theroux a job at the college where he had become headmaster. Theroux stayed there as a professor until leaving Africa in the late '60's.

Having left so much of Africa hopefully poised for independence and rebirth, he returns to travel through one ravaged kleptocracy after the next; countries where the most common greeting to foreigners has become "give me money." And why shouldn't they expect another handout? Aid programs abound, pouring billions of dollars, or francs, or marks into countries where the people seem unable to lift a finger to help themselves. Everything, everywhere, is filthy. Foreign doctors work in hospitals for low salaries that African doctors refuse to accept. Theroux is approaching 60 years old on this trip, a milestone that so few Africans reach that many people cannot conceive of the number being connected with age. What happened here?

The saddest chapter in "Dark Star Safari" is when he visits the college where he taught in Malawi. Once a beautiful place that educated many of the country's shining lights, it is now broken-down and filthy. The books in the library that was once a pride of the nation have been stolen or torn apart. The old students Theroux meets admit that it a tragedy, but none of them have done anything to change it.

And that is his revelation on this trip--only Africans can help Africa. Why they are not is fodder for another book altogether.

This book is hard-hitting good reading. And as always with Theroux, you will find yourself hitchhiking and hanging off the side of the bus in his excellent, tough-minded company.

Rating:
Summary: An Accurate Portrayal Described with Literary Prowess
Review: I have lived in Africa for over 20 years, and recently completed a similar overland journey (Morocco to Cape Town). I am busy writing my own book, so was a little disappointed when the pre-eminent travel writer of our times released his own account. In any event, as a prelude to my own literary ambitions, I decided to read every book on the topic that I could find - and this one stands head and shoulders above the rest. (For those interested,' Running with the Moon' by Johnny Bealby, and 'Africa Solo' by Kevin Kertscher were runners up).

Theroux travels with Africans in conditions which are unspeakable for those of us accustomed to jet travel, high speed trains and air-conditioned vehicles. He meets with many of Africa's literary icons, numerous dignitaries, and contacts from time spent in Africa 40 years previously. He is also not afraid to use his renown to gain access and audience where the rest of us would have no chance. Combine these factors with his considerable literary skill, and the result is an unrivalled publication.

His descriptions (notably the sunset on the East African plains) are breathtaking without being long-winded. He is able to contrast this with descriptions of squalor, hardship, the disintegrated infrastructure of the towns, and the transport used to travel between them . The various colleagues and friends he visits along the way, including the vice-president of Uganda, represent Africa's intellectual and political elite. Mostly, these people are enlightened, pro-active and deeply aware of the problems facing their countries. It is encouraging to read their discourse, as it is so easy to dismiss Africa as the stereotype of disenfranchised paupers governed by despotic tyrants.

His time spent in Africa during the 1960's was a time of liberation. Nationalist movements were gaining momentum, and Africans were giddy at the prospect of independence from their colonial overlords. Theroux is almost certainly unique in that he witnessed the Africa of then, and the Africa of now (but nothing of the in between) and is able to communicate his observations to a large, receptive audience. This perspective adds another level to the book which sets it apart.

Much is said about charities, missionaries and NGO's, both by Theroux, and the various others who have reviewed this book. I agree entirely with Theroux's observations. I found that the personnel working with these agencies seemed disdainful towards those of us who were really enjoying Africa, and often arrogant towards those they were professing to help. Their efforts nurture some of the most contemptible qualities of the African condition, turning them into subjugated beggars rather than empowering their independence. The deployment of aid does not improve lives, but merely provides the necessary resources required for reproduction - more aid recipients, all now living at the previous, lowest common denominator. Much of the aid is taken by the local chiefs, and is traded in the markets (lest we forget, America fought a battle in Somalia over this very issue, see the movie 'Black Hawk Down'). It may seem anathema to our sensibilities that Theroux is so scathing of these worthy men and women who have given up so much to go and help the dispossessed, but if the aid is counter-productive, even if only by Theroux's estimation, then he has the right (obligation?) to communicate it to us.

Theroux is particularly scathing of one missionary whose efforts involve reforming the 'sinful' ways of African prostitutes. In the USA prostitution may be a crime, but in Africa, he points out, it is the only channel of independence and financial freedom for women. It should be considered criminal that we are going there and preaching some dogma based on our value system, which is intended to deprive them of their livelihood. And this goes to the root of the issue, Theroux says. We are trying to solve their problems from our perspective, while driving around in a fancy white Landcruiser, the value of which is the entire life's earnings of a whole African family. African problems need African solutions run by Africans (with help from outside if necessary). They need dignity, empowerment and education - not grain, medicine and preaching. I think Theroux does a great job of communicating this - even if he does ruffle some philanthropic feathers in the process.

Why didn't I give the book five stars? Well, I feel that Theroux didn't give sufficient credence to the majority of proud Africans who lead the free and happy existence to which we all aspire. As a white traveler in Africa one is continuously exposed to the 'Give me money' syndrome. But this represents only a minute percentage of the population - those who await foreign travelers at bus stations, hotels and markets. These hustlers are a by-product of most societies - there were 8 million in Los Angeles by my last estimation. It took me at least two months of cultural immersion before I was able to transcend this exposure, and meet real Africans who were interested in my travels and reasons for being in Africa - people whom I had to seek out. Indeed, most Africans are contented, hard-working individuals unaffected by the tribulations of modern western society, let alone by their own autocratic governments whose influence over their own population is token compared to what we are used to in the west. African society thrived for millennia before the ancestors of western society even left the continent. It is cultural arrogance to assume that we need to impose our new-found values on them. Sure there are pockets of famine, abusive dictators and colonial fall-out - but for the vast majority of the continent's population, life goes on unabated. It is mostly their exposure to our society (fancy white landcruisers, satellite TV etc.) that might give them cause to kowtow. It is Theroux's failure to acknowledge this, or at least comment upon it, that I feel is the only shortcoming of an otherwise outstanding account.

Rating:
Summary: Disappear into the dark heart of Africa
Review: "Out of touch in Africa is where I wanted to be." Theroux says and that is exactly what he did during this trip. No schedule, no contacts with the outside world, with the exception of an occasional message to his wife letting her know he is still alive. Theroux makes the pages jump alive with vivid descriptions of Africa's landscape and people. Rather than a safe, travel agency prescribed, tour Theroux flies into Cairo with nothing but a plan, to go on a journey by road to Cape Town.

Before I go into the many things about this book which I enjoyed, I think it is necessary to touch on the one thing I did not like, Paul Theroux's ego. He goes into Africa believing that he is the most civilized and intelligent person on the continent (he doesn't say that directly but it is obvious through his writing). During his travels through Africa he lets his experience with aid workers, who treat him poorly or don't give him a ride, set a stereotype, to an extent, on all people of the sort in Africa. Theroux also seemed to believe that he was in extreme danger in public places. For example, he would dress in shabby clothes and would never carry any money because if he did he would be immediately robbed. Despite having no travel experience of my own in Africa, I believe that Theroux went overkill in these situations. Overall I believe this to be a very good book; however it is important while reading it, to realize that some of the opinions the author has have been influenced by bad experiences on his trip.

However, this book has many more strengths than weaknesses. His travel, for the most part, shows a realistic view of Africa that many people have never seen before. He reveals the blatant corruption of the foreign aid industry and the governments of many of the countries he visits. He also relates current Africa to the Africa he knew 40 years ago when he worked for the Peace Corps in Uganda. This past experience in Africa lets readers see how dramatically Africa has changed. The image I remember most is his description of an area called The Bat Valley, an area that 40 years ago was swarming with bats, which now has not a single bat in sight, because of people moving into the area. This is a unique book, filled with unforgettable experiences, from sleeping outside a pyramid in the Sudan to running from bandits in Kenya, this book is a must read for any travel enthusiast.

Rating:
Summary: Safari of Reality
Review: "Dark Star Safari" (DSS) inspires and captures the attention and heart of any reader who has a good love-affair with travel books. It brings the reality of Africa to the non-African reader. Not to give anything specific away, DSS shows us the real danger of Africa, but also the reality of many far-fetched ideas the average person has of the troubles and tourism of Africa. If you're easily affected by what the world around you, this book may overwhelm you with troubles, but if you have a strong stomach you should be able to read it through and only get a little scratched up.

DSS isn't a quick read (unless you're used to reading 400+ pages in a short amount of time) but is it worth taking the time to read. It is delightful and witty, while being realistic/honest and astonishing. An easy 5 star.