The Techniques of Indian Embroidery

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Summary: Rich, diverse, exploratory, fascinating.
Review: For centuries, India has been renowned for the richness and diversity of its embroidered textiles. Embroidery is part of the Indian way of life, and is in evidence everywhere: on clothes, adorning animals, in temples, homes and other buildings. In this book, Anne Morrell explores the many traditions of Indian embroidery, and its many techniques. She builds up a fascinating picture of the evolution in India, exploring the local traditions that make the work of each area unique, and looking at the way in which innovative stitches and designs have been added to those traditionally used to create new techniques and creative possibilities. She discusses the many different stitches and techniques in detail, including quilting, pattern-darning, counted-thread work, whitework, the enrichment of embroidery with mirrors, gold, silver and other metals, and applique and patchwork. many of the historical and contemporary embroideries illustrated are accompanied by clear worked samples showing exactly how the different stitches can be achieved and then used to create exciting effects. A final section includes twenty individual stitches and the method of working them, so that the techniques explored throughout the book can be put into practice. This is an invaluable working guide for anyone interested in drawing on the wealth of Indian embroidery techniques for use in their own embroideries or in the study of ethnic textiles. Anne Morrell was born in Madras and has long been interested in the embroidered textiles of India. She was a lecturer at Goldsmiths' College in London before moving to the Manchester Metropolitan University, where she became a Principal Lecturer in the Department of Textiles and Fashion. In 1992 she was appointed Professor. She is the author of a number of books and articles on embroidery, [...] under the names Anne Butler or Anne Morrell. She has held exhibitions of her work in many different countries.

Rating:
Summary: A splendid record and inspiration!
Review: Many people think of Indian embroidery as shisha (glass) work, which incorporates tiny mirrors into rich, colourful embroidered patterns. Particular to India, this embroidery technique is thought to have been developed by the wife of Shah Jahan; he built the Taj Mahal at Agra in her honour. Shisha is covered in this book, together with many other techniques, all illustrated with splendid examples. Sections cover embroidery stitches; quilting, darning and pattern-darning; counted-thread work; whitework; metal work; embroidery with a hook; and applique and patchwork. A section at the back gives diagrams of the stitches used, but the main use of this book is as a splendid record and inspiration, tracing the origins and techniques used for centuries in India to adorn clothes, homes, temples and animals. But this is no dry history book; it is written in a very practical, interesting way.

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Summary: An invaluable addition to the work on Indian embroidery.
Review: This book has an innovative and welcome approach to the study of embroidery which closely reflects Anne Morrell's particular interest in the development of stitches. Too often books are crammed with fascinating historical facts about embroideries, but frustrate the embroiderer by making little attempt to analyse how they are made, or to work out the individual stitches. Here the various stitches are closely examined, showing worked examples of them, including how they look on the back, so that one can take the photographs and compare them with an actual piece of embroidery; to 'put it under the microscope' and work out precisely how it is done. This exercise in itself teaches a great deal about the Indian approach to embroidery and helps to identify antique pieces. These stich samplers indicate the detailed analysis Anne Morrell has done of Indian work, and set a wonderful example to all students of historical embroidery. India is an enormous country, so it is perhaps surprising to learn that embroidery is concentrated in certain areas. The wide variety of techniques used illustrate India's position on trade routes from East to West, with strong influences from China, Persia and Europe. Embroidery varies from the opulent articles for imperial courts to the vivid folk embroidery that reflects the religious befiefs and symbolism of the Indian tribes and still plays an important role in the way of life. This is amplified in the historical background. Each technique is then considered in detail, each section being well illustrated, often with very clear close-ups of the embroidery to show the stitches. Techniques covered are stitches, quilting, darning and pattern darning, counted thread work, whitework, mirrorwork, metal work, embroidery with a hook, applique and patchwork, the breadth of which indicates the rich heritage of India. This books makes an invaluable addition to the corpus of work on the embroidery of India.