Brilliant Knits: 25 Contemporary Knitwear Designs from the Kaffe Fassett Studio

Rating:
Summary: Nicely produced book of men's and women's sweaters
Review: As a warning, almost half of these designs are already published in Rowan magazines. The remainder, all new for this book, are often variations on Mably's style, which is similar to the well-known Kaffe Fassett's, although much simpler. The sweaters are really abstract, skirting the avant garde, although the fundamental styles are basic pullovers and cardigans. It's the color schemes that are dynamic and innovative, although Mably shows most of the sweaters in bright, bold, and sometimes almost garish color combinations. Since I prefer a more classic and muted look, it is difficult for me to see past the colors to the actual sweater and choose my own schemes. However, if you like lots of color, this book is an excellent choice. Most of the yarns used are Rowan (with some Jaeger), which is a sad choice since if you have used Rowan yarns, you are aware that as soon as a pattern is published, Rowan stops manufacturing the yarn. For instance, some of these patterns call for DK soft, which was recently discontinued. Pluses to this book are the introduction, which is concise and helpful, bearing tips on handling intarsia and fair isle in a nicely laid out presentation. Also, Mably introduces each pattern with a brief notation that describes his inspiration and intention, adding a charming touch. The patterns themselves are clear and simple to read, as are the large-size black and white charts, although there are no size diagrams, making it difficult to substitute yarns or handle your differing gauge. A huge plus is the photos of the sweaters. Unlike some publishers who concentrate more on the dramatic pose of the models, obsuring the sweater, this publisher paid lots of attention to showing the sweater. You know exactly what you are looking at and getting, including two or more photos of the sweaters, even with back views, to give you a strong idea. The book is really excellently executed, on fine quality paper. A nice presentation. I'm only sorry that these sweaters aren't my sort -- but if you like Mably's cover sweater, I'll bet you find you'll want to knit most of those included in the book!

Rating:
Summary: Pretty colorwork, interesting designs but some problems, too
Review: Brandon Mably is a member of popular knit designer Kaffe Fassett's studio. I really liked many of Mably's designs, which are in some ways simpler and bolder than Fassett's--though clearly inspired by his mentor. But the design work here is spotty. Some of the ideas such as a Gypsy-striped scarf and vest, are simple in concept but look stunning. Others are Kaffee-clones, such as stars on complicated backgrounds. And there are complete departures from the Fassett style, such as a sweater with an intarsia design of pitted olives. Very cute.

The problem with this book, however, is that the quality of the knitted models varies from great to just awful. I would never have let some of those photos see the light of day, let alone the pages of a book. Knitting boo-boos jump out of the page such as uneven motif joins in intarsia, bulgy and uneven increasing above the ribbing and other amateurish-looking knitting that would have a competent knitting editor shouting naughty words. Another problem is the reliance on Rowan yarns, which are expensive and go out of production rapidly. If you want to reproduce these styles exactly, in the colors and weights of yarn specified, you may find yourself on a wild-goose chase. And the yarns used are often cotton. Now, cotton is able to be dyed in deep and bright colors, and the sheen on a mercerized cotton yarn lends a brilliance to knitting that a matte wool cannot achieve. But knitting intarsia (a technique where yarns are knitted in independent color zones and linked on the wrong side with a twisting method) is incredibly difficult to do with cotton. This is because cotton drapes and does not adapt to fill gaps in tension variations. Wool is forgiving in this matter and the fuzzy surface also hides knitting flaws. With cotton yarns, the inevitable variations of hand knitting are magnified, though master knitters can compensate. If you are not experienced in intarsia, let me tell you that a horrific experience awaits you if your first attempts are with cotton yarns. So be forewarned. If you don't believe me, look at the "Olives" sweater which sadly illustrates the difficulties that even an experienced knitter can have with cotton and intarsia. Tragic.

The sweater shapes in this book do vary from the wide and loose Fassett style (that does not always flatter the wide and voluptuous among us) and there are slimming v-necks and nicely done tunics. That's good. There are many design ideas here that are interesting and attractive, as well as some good colorways. However, other color choices were garish and muddy-looking.

So, if you like the Fassett style and are looking for more inspiration, you may find it here. But the uneven quality and the fact that many of these styles were previously published in Rowan books elsewhere, limit the value of this book.

Rating:
Summary: BRILLIANT K NITS
Review: Well presented clear photographs and graphs Hard to decide which to knit first