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Rating: Summary: Don't Let Darwin Win - Read the Book! Review: I am not a climber, so when I had the opportunity to read Allen's "UltraSafe" I planned on a few minutes of reading per evening until it was finished or I just gave up. I opened it up one night and didn't put it down until I had reached the back cover. Yeah, some of the technical terms made whistling noises as they flew over my head, but I managed to catch most of the concepts. What makes this book fascinating is the author's overall approach to climbing safety. He recommends the climber develop a attitude of safety, or a safety culture, rather than just run down a checklist to insure some vital piece of equipment is functional or refraining from doing something obviously stupid. He explains how to encorporate safety into all facets of the sport without turning the endeavor into some sort of perverted govermental compliance exercise. The text has enough tech-talk in it to keep the attention of the hard core crowd but is written so well that it kept my attention (remember me - the non-climber?). The personal anectdotes make it real and the Wizard Tips ("Master" to the "Grasshopper" tidbits of wisdom) leave no doubt that this guy knows what he's talking about. If you're a novice climber, Read The Book before you develop any bad habits. If you're an experienced climber who wants to be around long enough to become more experienced, Read The Book. If you're an experienced climber who thinks you already know enough about safety, Read The Book. Don't let Darwin win.
Rating: Summary: Climb...and live Review: I have climbed occasionally with George Allen over the past twenty years. His approach on the rock has always been one of caution and complete awareness of his environment without ever lapsing into hyper-paranoia. This thoughtful, cautious approach carries over into this book. No one, particularly those making a transition from the climbing gym to the "real world", should rope up without reading this. Climbing safety is about a lot more than checking your knots and nut placement. Mr. Allen provides the first comprehensive overview of safety for everyone whether they are bouldering or climbing the Yosemite walls.
Rating: Summary: Your Life Is Worth It! Review: I just completed an AMGA Course and I have to say this is one of the finest consolidations of safe climbing advice that I've seen to date. The suggestions are simple to follow and make you wonder 'Why didn't I think of that?' I've been a traditonal lead climber several years now and I can honestly say I'll be implementing some of the authors safety pointers the next time I'm on the rock.
Rating: Summary: Wizard Tip Number One: Read This Book! Review: I was a novice climber when I met George Allen: George taught me how to climb. Along the way George also revealed climbing safety. He insisted. What I recall most about climbing with George is that he was always consistent with his competent instruction. That consistency and competency carries over into the book. The instruction included within "Ultrasafe: ..." is crucial information for climbers of all skill levels. In fact, even experts need to be reminded the fundamentals, fundamentals found within the text. The falls I have witnessed, the injuries, the deaths, were typically the result of disregard for safety fundamentals. How much is your life worth? One nut? A Friend? One more anchor? Since climbing with George, I have applied many of his insights to my daily life. For example: Don't walk on ice with your hands in your pockets. Good advice, but how many of us walk on ice with our hands in our pockets? After rolling in the cholla I quit approaching with items in my hands. Sound fundamental advice. You will find more within. I strongly recommend this book. The book is easy to read and the tips herein may save either yours or your partner's life someday, and they are likely to prevent injuries. Thank you George Allen for formalizing these truths.
Rating: Summary: Confident climbing for life Review: This book is for any climber at any level - sport, trad, whatever. I am a 48 year old novice climber, and this book has provided an enormous amount of information I never considered or found in any other book or class. Essential stuff. My son is quite advanced and has added his endorsement - great info, cool pictures. We just got back from Lander, Wyoming where we met and climbed with George. He's the real deal! He climbs with passion and teaches the same way. Climbing is a dangerous sport. This terrific book provides the means to minmize the hazards, and increase the pleasures. Get it now! It's a GREAT - and useful - read!
Rating: Summary: Confident climbing for life Review: This book is for any climber at any level - sport, trad, whatever. I am a 48 year old novice climber, and this book has provided an enormous amount of information I never considered or found in any other book or class. Essential stuff. My son is quite advanced and has added his endorsement - great info, cool pictures. We just got back from Lander, Wyoming where we met and climbed with George. He's the real deal! He climbs with passion and teaches the same way. Climbing is a dangerous sport. This terrific book provides the means to minmize the hazards, and increase the pleasures. Get it now! It's a GREAT - and useful - read!
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