The Winemaker's Dance: Exploring Terroir in the Napa Valley

Rating:
Summary: Dry wine treatise
Review:

Terroir, as most wine buffs know, is the elusive argument that advocates of French wine use to argue that their favorite beverage is superior to the wine produced in other countries. It is an unmeasurable quality: a combination of soil, climate, character, history, and tradition that enthusiastic tasters say they can recognize in the wine. It is why a specific wine tastes the way it does and not the way one produced a few hundred yards away tastes.

Though Napa Valley is certainly a newcomer compared to the oldest wine-growing areas in France, Italy, and Germany, Napa certainly does have history, and certain patches of it are celebrated for producing wines that have enough sophistication and depth to stand up to any other wines in the world.

But to what extent does that mean California wines have a quality like terroir?

It's an interesting question and one that deserves a book that includes a thorough and lively treatment. The Winemakers Dance, unfortunately, is not that book -- although not for a lack of trying.

Passionate authors Jonathan Swinchatt and David Howell are geologists by trade, and it shows by the way they attempt to argue for terroir in Napa from the ground up -- including scores of geological maps and aerial views of the valley floor and nearby mountains. The authors discuss many of the key players and vineyards in the region in great detail.

The problem is that despite the authors' attempt to create something accessible to and compelling for the general public, the books falls far short of that, remaining for the most part an academic treatise. Amazon's description of the book got it right: "exhaustive and ... exhausting." I am a bit of a wine buff myself, with a mid-sized and growing collection of wine books, but this was tough to get through, and a third of the way through I gave up trying to read it cover to cover and instead settled on a strategy of picking through the tests for parts that captured my attention.

Am I disappointed I bought it? No, not too much, despite my complaints, The Winemakers Dance taught me a great deal about the relationship between the winemaker and the land in Napa Valley. But it's back on my shelf now, and, unfortunately, I think it'll probably stay there.

Rating:
Summary: Winemaker's Wisdon - a fusion of science and intuition
Review: This is a wonderful book for someone interested in an understanding of the complexities and nuances of creating good wine. After reading it I have a deep appreciation for the forces brought together by the winemaker. The Napa Valley and what it produces are certainly uniquely American treasures.

The authors begin by explaining the winemaker's dance as "an engagement with land, vine, and human understanding that is fundamental to understanding the relationship of terroir and wine". What follows delves into each aspect of the dance in exquisite and enjoyable detail.

Initially I thought I'd be overwhelmed by the scientific details of the geological formation of the Napa Valley, however, the combination of wonderful graphics, diagrams, maps and descriptions resulted in not only an understanding of Napa, but a greater understanding of geology in general. The authors move us through a history of the forces that created the major structures of the valley up to the resultant influences on soil and the particular issues that concern winemakers. Despite being geologists, the authors have a keen respect for the limitations of scientific information and are quick to point out the limitations and resultant assumptions.

Understanding more of the geologic history of the Valley allows one to understand the importance of site selection by the grape growers and winemakers. Rock, soil, sun, wind direction and temperature as well as other details of place and earth are critical in deciding what and where to plant.

The second half of the book brings into focus the amazingly complex work of growing excellent grapes and then harvesting and handling them to produce excellent wine. For me it suggests that the best winemakers need a fusion of both masculine/feminine, linear/intuitive capacities. One could know everything about the science of winemaking and fail without having a feel for timing, smell and taste. No wonder some of Napa's best winemakers are women.

The book contains some tasty bonuses including two tours of the Napa Valley and it's wineries, and quick-read boxes explaining such things as the tannin effect. For readers who love well-produced books, the quality of paper, color and print style make this one a treat to touch and see. The authors' writing style is also quite enjoyable with freguent use of surprising similes and metaphors.

Finally, a major benefit to me as a novice wine taster is the message to trust my own taste rather than relying on the "experts". And, to find a good wine store with knowledgeable staff to help you through the process of exploration.