Description:
The trend towards cooking and eating according to the seasons has been steadily gaining momentum, and it's no wonder. A fresh, deep red, perfectly ripe tomato in the middle of August seems a different species altogether than those insipid, crunchy, watery specimens we see in the supermarket in January. In The Farmer's Market Cookbook, Richard Ruben goes one better. A chef and food consultant in New York City, Ruben conducts "Green Market" classes at Peter Kump's Cooking School. He's shopped at farmers' markets all over the world and has put together a beautiful collection of simple, clear, easy-to-follow recipes that take full advantage of the kinds of specialty produce available all across the country. Divided into sections for spring, summer, and autumn, this little volume is peppered with poetic notes and introductions by Ruben, who is obviously inspired by the produce he finds. Fava beans must have "a full allotment developed within." Lavender transports him "to languid, sun-drenched days." Choosing wild mushrooms, his "mind was now conveyed to a moist, shadowy forest." He's even included a number of food-inspired haikus for good measure! But even if you don't appreciate his poetry, Ruben's recipes are well worth a try. Ingredient lists are short and the instructions are simple--if the produce is delectably fresh, the argument goes, what more do you need? Spring offers dishes such as Fiddlehead Fern Risotto, Lamb Marinated in Tropical Juice (with fresh mint and spinach or baby bok choy), and Wilted Escarole Scented with Garlic. Summer's bounty includes Grilled Summer Corn and Tomatillo Relish, Grilled Chicken Breasts with Summer Squash, Gnocchi with Cherry Tomatoes and Sage Butter, and Lemon Verbena Sorbet. And in autumn there are dishes such as Quince and Pomegranate Chutney, Kale with Caramelized Onions and Portobello Mushrooms, and Stuffed Dumpling Squash. Fortunately, most of the ingredients called for are available in supermarkets, so even if your idea of fun is not a Saturday morning at the market, you can still easily create these seasonal dishes at home. And for those who love nothing better than to wander through the stalls, chat with the farmers, and find a new vegetable or herb at the local farmers' market, chances are you'll find a simple recipe here to highlight whatever you discover. --Leora Y. Bloom
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