The Climb

Rating:
Summary: Compelling, a great companion volume to "Into Thin Air"
Review: I discovered The Climb just recently, over a year after reading Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer. I feel like the two books together give the best picture of what happened on Mount Everest in May 1996. The Climb was not as eloquently written as Krakauer's book, but it gave an entire other dimension to the events that occurred on the mountain. I enjoyed going back and forth between the two books when the accounts conflicted. I came away from The Climb with a great deal of respect for Boukreev. I also found the book to provide insight into how people's judgment and perception is impaired in high altitude situations. I believe a lot of the discrepancies between the two accounts stem from the effect of the altitude and exhaustion upon all of the people involved. Overall, I found this to be a fascinating book, not beautifully-written, but clear and straight forward. And, of course, completely and utterly tragic.

Rating:
Summary: Greed Kills!
Review: If you liked Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air," and are intrigued by human folly, you'll like "The Climb" - the two books compliment one another. From reading these books, I think an argument could be made that the Great Mountain just got ticked off at having so many misfits tromping on its summit that it decided to gather a storm and blow them away, literally. What's obvious is that both Hall and Fischer feared one would be more successful than the other in putting their clients on top of the mountain, and thus one of them would be ruined financially in the future. In the great race to score the most points and win the game, poor - very, very, very - poor judgement became rampant.With the luxury of armchair hindsight, it's unbelievable the shabby planning and risks these expeditions took. If it helps prevent similar tragedies in the future, then not all is in vain. @ END

Rating:
Summary: Just the facts, ma'm...
Review: Boukreev and writer G. Weston DeWalt do a commendable job in the effort to continue an open dialogue on the reasons (and merits?) of high altitude mountain climbing as well as the tragic events of the Everest climbing season in 1996. Substantial critical acclaim has favored Jon Krakauer's book Into Thin Air on the events of the May 1996 climbing season and the loss of life on Mount Everest laying substantial blame for a series of calamities squarely upon Boukreev who probably felt compelled to write this reply. Well it would be fair to say that The Climb will not ever be praised as fine literature but it is especially well worth reading and should be a 'must read' for everyone who was caught up in Krakauer's version of events. What The Climb lacks in literary style is well made up for in a solid and unembellished presentation of just the facts. I like reading Krakauer a lot and have been a fan of his writings since his early days with Eiger Dreams, Into the Wild and most of his widely published magazine articles. Having read The Climb causes me to question whether Krakauer as an author is really concerned with the truth or does a little fiction creep in just to keep his writing interesting. Boukreev who has been unfortunatly prematurly silenced in a tragic mountain avalanche in December of 1997 presents a very convincing and solid book in this effort. I for one admit that the writing style (such as it is)reads more old Jack Webb dialog. Give this book a try

Rating:
Summary: The best man-against-nature struggle you could ask for.
Review: I first read Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". While it was interesting, I found it a bit difficult to follow because the details and names began to run together as the story became more involved. "The Climb" was a much easier to read and enjoyable book. The details provided take you as close to Everest as you can get without strapping on a pair of crampons and an oxygen mask, something I would do in a heartbeat given the opportunity.

Anatoli's home was in the mountains. I believe his actions were the result of an innate sense of human duty. He is a hero because he sacrificed his life in the face of near certain death. No one else on the mountain was willing (or able) to do what he did. This is what defines a hero. The high altitude mountaineering community lost an invaluable soul on Christmas of 1997. I'm sure he'll be missed.

I will not take sides on the issues between Mr. Krakauer and Anatoli Boukreev. Read "Into Thin Air" first, then read "The Climb" and form your own opinions. I will however leave you with a quote from the book that only further intrigues me and makes me want to get more involved in this high-risk sport:

"At the end we are each responsible for our ambition, and on Everest every bit of preparation you make will still leave you in short supply on summit day."

Do yourself a favor and read the book. You'll be glad you did.

Rating:
Summary: Superior to Into Thin Air
Review: THE CLIMB is a far more evenly told tale of a tragedy about which the pseudo-brilliance of hindsight has managed to supply everyone with the omniscience of God. No doubt, mistakes were made, though in his self-defense Boukreev explains why, with the assistance and clarity of G. Weston Dewalt's research, either everyone is to blame or no one is to blame. I recommend THE CLIMB either as an alternative or as a companion to "Into Thin Air" -- but unequivocably as a must-read if you want to learn about Mt. Everest, high-altitude mountain-climbing, and the importance of respecting both the mountain and your own personal limitations. I would also like to extend my heartfelt condolences to the friends and family of not only Anatoli Boukreev, but to all of those who died on Everest on May 10, 1996, and to the others who climbed that season who have since perished in the mountains.

Rating:
Summary: Great Companion to Into Thin Air
Review: Having read this The Climb after Into Thin Air I am glad to have read Into Thin Air first. The Climb has the focus of one expedition and what happened to it on the mountain whereas Into Thin Air presents a much broader picture of what was happening at Everest. I also enjoyed the literary style of Into Thin Air better and noted that The Climb was more like a list of events rather than a narrative. I do have great respect for Anatoli who saved many members of his expedition. Only Scott Fisher died in the Mountain Madness expedition (mainly due to the efforts of Anatoli) while many died on Rob Hall's expedition. I won't criticize either the author or Jon Krakauer for their efforts to explain this climbing tragedy.Overall, this is an excellent book which adds much information to the Everest 1996 story and gives us additional insight into the character of the people involved. I highly recommend it but believe Into Thin Air gives a better setting for the story and should still be read first.

Rating:
Summary: A great story that is superbly written
Review: After reading "Into Thin Air" I wasn't sure what to expect from "The climb". But shortly after starting to read this book I found that it was superbly written. The story keeps moving and the reader almost has a sense that they are there experiencing the tragic events that took place on Mt. Everest in May, 1996. Although Krakauer and Boukreevs stories about what exectly happened during the expidition differ "The Climb" is just written so much better than "Into Thin air" which helps to lend to it's accuracy. Time was taken to interview many of the survivors of the Everest Expiditions. If any one wants a thouroghly enjoyable read that grabs you and doesn't let you go than you need to read "The Climb".

Rating:
Summary: There's the Story, the Man and a Book
Review: By now all those who care have heard or read about the tragedy which occurred on Mt.Everest in May 1996. There is "Into Thin Air" and this book, "The Climb" by Anatoli Boukreev and G. Weston Dewalt which describe in detail this tragedy. I have read both books. By no means will I declare a winner here. I will say Anatoli's description of the details and events which led to this calamity are presented very clearly. When reading "The Climb" you recognize the "Story" from the eyes of one of the world's great mountaineers. The details are clearly painted for one to recognize and feel the emotions which were experienced there. This is one of the reasons I enjoyed the book. The next reason was the insight to the "Man." Prior to reading this book I was unaware of who exactly Anatoli was. Now I know! I am with sorrow when I learned he had died (not in the book, occurred after publishing). Anatoli was a pioneer, an adventurer and a hero - this you do find in the book. My negative points with this book are the attempts to cover more than the "Story" and the narrative. The authors went on in a few pages, relatively speaking to cover another expedition which Anatoli had participated in. The title "The Climb : Tragic Ambitions on Everest" indicates the reader will learn about the "Story" and I assume other tragedies. The other expedition was not a tragedy. The insight to who Anatoli was is absolutely NOT a tragedy. The authors could have ended with their telling of THE tragedy and had the opportunity to write a follow-on book about Anatoli. Also, I respect the authors desire to include a section which delivered the exact words of Anatoli during a Q&A session. But I do not think it worked for two reasons. First, Anatoli did not justify his position to anyone. He was a hero. Second, the narration was long and the dialect became difficult to read. Overall, I do recommend this book to those who wish to experience the challenge of Mt.Everest and to learn about a great mountaineer.

Rating:
Summary: A clumsy attempt at spin control
Review: I read The Climb first, and then Into Thin Air. Right after I finished reading The Climb I was outraged at Jon Krakauer for being unfair to Boukreev. Boukreev's ghostwriter, Weston DeWalt, made Krakauer out to be an evil man who used his writing genius to slander poor Anatoli. But then I actually read Krakauer's book and found that DeWalt's claim that Into Thin Air is a hatchet job to be wildly exaggerated. I think Krakauer treated Boukreev quite fairly. He praises Boukreev's strength and courage. Yes, he also criticizes Boukreev for certain actions, but his criticisms seem right on the money. It's not Krakauer who says Boukreev "cut and ran," he is simply quoting one of Boukreev's clients. I've been to lectures where others who were on Everest in 1996 (Breashears, Viesturs, and Beidleman) confirmed in public that Krakauer's book is accurate and his criticisms valid. They also made it clear that The Climb is dishonest about certain important points. The more I thought about it, the less honest The Climb seemed to me. Whereas Krakauer admits to his mistakes, Boukreev never admits to any mistakes, and blames everything that goes wrong on others (mostly Scott Fischer, who handily isn't around to say otherwise). And The Climb is full of contradictions: Boukreev says he's stronger without bottled oxygen, so why did he use oxygen when he went back to guide Everest in 1997? Also, his explanation for abandoning his clients on the summit and descending ahead of everybody doesn't wash with me. The Climb just smells fishy. Boukreev presents himself as the one true hero of Everest, wiithout giving enough credit to others, like Neal Beidleman and Klev Schoening. The book is way too defensive and self-promoting. I don't trust it. It's also wretchedly written and edited. It makes me wonder if the research and fact-checking were done just as carelessly. The Climb reads like an exercise in spin control or propaganda, not journalism. It has too many gratuitous digs at Krakauer, Beid!leman, Athans, and others who have dared criticize the great Boukreev. The outraged claims that Boukreev was unfairly persecuted in Krakauer's book seems like a calculated marketing ploy on the part of DeWalt and his publisher. It's as if the publisher didn't have confidence that the book would sell on it's own merits, so they decided to present Boukreev as the victim, and to pitch The Climb as an attack on Krakauer's book. DeWalt complains that Into Thin Air is inaccurate and unfair, and that The Climb is the "True Account" of the tragedy. In the end, after reading Into Thin Air, I came away thinking the opposite is the case.

Rating:
Summary: Read "The Climb" before "Into Thin Air"
Review: I read Anatoli Boukreev's book "The Climb" after I had read Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" and I was sorry that I did not read "The Climb" first. "The Climb" is better written and illustrated and provides a deeply engrossing analysis of May 10, 1996 when the Scott Fisher and Rob Hall expeditions to Everest ran out of luck, in large part due to their own mistakes. I did not interpret that Anatoli was trying to "defend" his actions that day on Everest, but, rather was trying to present the circumstances as he, an acknowledged climbing expert, saw them. That some of his actions were not understood and apparently reported incorrectly by Jon Krakauer, a journalist paid to write about the expedition, should not come as a surprise. At the height of the storm on the South Col, Anatoli went out and rescued Tim Madsen, Charlotte Fox, and Sandy Pittman while Krakauer stayed in his tent. Enough said. Read the book!